Nica Lewis – in-cosmetics, UK IN-COSMETICS SUMMIT
Summit on developments in sensory technology
in-cosmetics is to launch the first international technical summit dedicated to texture in personal care formulation. Taking place from 24-25 November, the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit builds on the exhibition organiser’s educational programme run alongside its global, Asian and Brazilian shows. It focuses on one of the industry’s hottest topics: over 60% of formulators interviewed ranked texture and sensoriality among the top formulating challenges for their brands today. Over two days of practical case study- led presentations, this high-level event at the Bloomsbury Hotel (Central London) will address formulation architecture and texture from multiple angles (see Table 1). “Throughout the industry and at our shows, we’re seeing plenty of innovation in the functional side of cosmetics,” explained in-cosmetics exhibition director Cathy Laporte. “But there are many questions about how to incorporate these new texture and sensory developments into current formulations, especially in relation to changes in the regulatory landscape and consumer needs, as well as time and cost constraints.”
The in-cosmetics Formulation Summit will cover the technical, regulatory and commercial aspects of texture and sensory
Table 1: Programme overview Day 1: New techniques
• Texture trends – what’s sticky? • Globalisation vs. geo-localisation • Preservatives – tolerance and texture • Sustainability and texture –
– alternatives to microbeads
• Disruptive formulation techniques • Sun care – secrets of spreadability • Hair care – optimising oil infusions
aesthetics. The programme will offer insight into global texture trends, new blending and evaluating technologies and changing sensory norms across skin care, hair care, sun care and cosmetics categories.
Top industry experts to present
Over 20 experts from beauty brands, academia and regulatory bodies will help delegates re-think formulation and analyse the drivers for reformulation. Manufacturers presenting include Coty, Johnson & Johnson, Neal’s Yard Remedies, Oriflame and cult British indie nail care brand Ciaté. The Summit programme will address the industry’s latest regulatory challenge
Day 2: Surprising sensations
• New sensory norms – what’s most desirable? • Sensory semantics
• Going with the flow – new rheology modifiers • Multi-functionality and sensoriality
– achieving synergy • Texture bar
• Organogels for cosmetic applications • Sensorial analysis – new metrics
Attendees will enjoy a range of high-level presentations.
related to sustainability and texture: microplastics in cosmetic formulations. With NGOs and the UN calling for a global ban, several states in the US have already enacted legislation to forbid the use of plastic microbeads by 2017. As one of the first brands to pre- emptively remove microbeads from its formulations, Oriflame’s category director Patrick O’Byrne will present a case study for managing this process for both leave-on and rinse-off products. He will be joined by Gerald Renner, director of technical regulatory affairs from Cosmetics Europe, who will discuss the latest regulatory thinking at a European level and implications for this new facet of sustainability. Many texture innovations come from Asia but developments are emerging in Europe too, so the Summit will address both. For example M4E, a spin-off from the Catholic University of Leuven in Belgium, has developed a magnetic technology that meets the need for high quality, cost- effective, stable emulsions. The low-shear solution produces a higher yield from raw materials with a shorter process time and is more energy efficient. “This makes it a desirable option for brands seeking to upscale their formulations sustainably,” noted M4E’s Bart Jorissen. Researchers at the UK’s Formumetrics, affiliated with the University of Bristol’s Colloid Centre, will explain how nuclear magnetic resonance technology can be used for measuring stability in cosmetic emulsions and dispersions.
September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 29
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