HAIR CARE
sebum. This can result in oily scalp and hair as well as acne and hair loss conditions.
Although oily/hair scalp is considered a cosmetic problem and not a dermatological condition, the absence of adequate scalp care treatment to treat oily scalp disorder, could lead to serious scalp pathology (dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, alopecia).6 Clinical literature provides evidence that the occurrence of such pathologic skin conditions negatively impact individuals’ quality of life.7,8
These pathologies provoke
deleterious psychosocial impact on human self-esteem and a healthy self-image. The oily appearance of scalp is due to an accumulation of sebum on the scalp as a consequence of an excess sebum excretion by sebaceous glands.9,10 The accumulated ‘sebum’ on the scalp surface is a mixture of sebum produced by sebaceous glands and lipids produced by keratinocytes. This epidermal lipid is very important to skin’s hydration. If this component is disturbed or stripped off though use of harsh detergents, skin’s permeability barrier may become compromised allowing excessive water loss, and as a result of this increase in trans- epidermal water loss the skin and scalp will face dryness.35
The water contents of
the stratum corneum of healthy skin must be greater than 10% and the skin’s lipidic component plays an essential role in maintaining a balanced ecosystem. The skin surface of oily skin and scalp is often characterised by an abnormal lipid composition (decrease in ceramides and sphingolipids content).11
These
abnormalities in lipid composition are linked to hyperkeratosis, barrier dysfunction, and weakness of the cell follicle membrane. Consequentially, the weakness of the cell follicle membrane induces the release of digested lipids, which in turn, increase the amount of superficial sebum. Once excreted, the accumulated sebum is spread over the scalp surface and on hair giving it an oily appearance.
The normal scalp has a biotic commensal community (Staphylococcus spp., Propionibacterium spp., and Malassezia spp.)12
On the dandruff-afflicted
scalp, the levels of Malassezia increase by 1.5 to 2 times their normal level.13 The presence of these microorganisms (Malassezia restrica, Malassezia furfur and Malassezia globossa)14
on the oily scalp
provide an ideal medium (inflammatory, irritant) which leads to the development of dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis.15 The sebum is degraded by oxygen and microorganisms found on the scalp surface. Once degraded the sebum becomes cytotoxic and irritant due to free
Lanosterol Squalene
fatty acid liberation, thus provoking reactive follicular hyperkeratosis and epidermis alteration marking the onset of scalp disease.
Regulating sebum production with a selected mix of multifunctional ingredients In this study, we assessed the efficiency of active ingredients (panthenyl triacetate, farnesol, farnesyl acetate) to treat the metabolic origin of scalp disorder by limiting the excretion of sebum at the scalp surface via the modulation of the lipid metabolism process involved in sebaceous gland and in the epidermis.
Concept of this selected mix Panthenyl triacetate (PTA), farnesol, and farnesyl acetate (FA) were selected for their biological properties. Panthenyl triacetate and farnesyl acetate were respectively synthesised by acetylation of panthenol and farnesol. Panthenol and panthenol derivative (PTA) are converted into pantothenic acid in vivo.16
Pantothenic acid
is categorised as part of the vitamin B complex family and is a characteristic natural by-product of the human metabolism. Pantothenic acid is one of several precursor substances forming coenzyme A,17
which is an important
cofactor for acylation reactions in numerous biochemical processes in the body. Coenzyme A also plays a decisive part in the cholesterol synthesis (Fig. 1). Farnesol and farnesol derivatives (FA) are natural substances of high biological potency, which are also found in this form as bioactivators in human skin. Farnesol
a Panthothenic acid b Acetoacetyl-CoA
Acetyl-CoA +
HMG-CoA Mevalonate Dimethylallyl-PP
Isopentenyl-PP +
CoenzymeA (CoA)
and farnesol derivatives are widespread in the plant world, in particular in the essential oil plant. The derivatives of panthenol and farnesol were used in order to provide a sustained action. Indeed, their conversion is slower in comparison to panthenol and farnesol into biologically active molecules.
The scalp microorganisms are known to have a limited growth due to the intrinsic antifungal and antibacterial properties of the three active ingredients, panthenyl triacetate, farnesol and farnesol acetate, used in the cosmetic formula. By using the cosmetic formulation, the quality of sebum composition is controlled (by panthenyl triacetate, farnesyl acetate and farnesol) and protected against microorganisms and oxidation.
Clinical investigations Material and methods Cream and shampoo formulas The active ingredients were used in the cream at 5% and in the shampoo at 2%, with the following formulas: INCI composition of the cream containing the active ingredient Unitrienol T-27 at 5%: Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Beeswax, Lanolin Corona, Safflower Oil, Decyl Oleate, Unitrienol T-27, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Cholesterol, Trilaurin, Uniphen P-23 (Preservative), Perfume.
INCI composition of placebo cream: Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Beeswax, Lanolin Corona, Safflower Oil, Decyl Oleate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Cholesterol, Trilaurin, Uniphen P-23 (Preservative), Perfume.
Farnesyl-PP +
Farnesyl-PP 7-Dehydrocholesterol
Isopentenyl-P
Geranyl-PP +
Cholesterol Figure 1: The biosynthesis of Coenzyme A and cholesterol. September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 35
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