ANALYSIS
Emmanuelle Moeglin – Mintel, UK
Cushion compacts promise to spread towards the West
Since the global success of BB and CC creams in the West, brands and manufacturers are on the lookout for the next successful innovation coming from South Korea and cushion has the potential to take this route. Cushion compacts carry many benefits of what consumers look for in facial cosmetics, including long wear, flawless coverage, added benefits and easy-to-use format. In South Korea, this format is especially appealing since it enables users to achieve the dewy look (Chok Chok), the most desirable face look South Korean women want to achieve, thanks to the light and natural coverage as well as added benefits it provides. However, companies will have to address specificity of Westerners’ skin needs and tones as well as improved coverage, which is key to retaining attention in the facial cosmetics arena in the West. Some cushions may fail in providing enough coverage, which is already a frustration encountered with BB and CC creams in some countries in Europe.
Cushion compacts are taking off in the West Cushion compacts are the next make up craze to come from South Korea. In January 2015, Lancôme was the first brand to introduce a cushion compact developed specifically for the Western market with Miracle Cushion (Coussin de Teint Fluide in French), launched in France and available in six skin tones. But Lancôme has quickly lost its exclusivity as Kiko has introduced in January 2015 CC Cream Cushion System also available in six tones and SPF 25. Meanwhile, Purminerals has also launched Air Perfection CC Cushion Compact Foundation in the US available in three colour tones. There are rumours that several other mass and prestige brands will follow suit in the coming months, bringing the success of cushion compacts from Asia and adapting the technology for Western consumers, with a wider range of colours and lower SPF.
10 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
Cushion compacts are stamp-type compacts featuring a sponge soaked in a liquid face makeup which enable sheer and flawless coverage thanks to the ‘air’ or mousse-like texture while adhering perfectly to the skin. Meanwhile, its portability makes it a convenient and easy format to carry and apply. In South Korea, the format has moved beyond foundation into colour point makeup.
Therefore, cushion compacts are a winning combination of portable format, light texture, long wear and added skin care benefits which appeal to makeup users across the globe.
According to Mintel’s research, the three most important benefits sought when selecting facial cosmetics by US women are long wearing, lightweight formula and moisturising. In the UK, women rank long- lasting and formulated specifically for their skin type and skin tone as the most important benefits in facial cosmetics.
It is clear that while cushion compacts can appeal to Western women, formulations need to be adapted to a range of skin tones and skin needs (dry, combination and normal) and to have lighter SPF than in Asia. Additionally, long lasting coverage is important and in Europe, although BB and CC creams have gained in popularity, women tend to prefer more traditional foundation and face powder.
Conclusion
Cushion compacts may become the next makeup craze from South Korea as several Western brands have adapted the format to suit Western consumers’ skin needs and tones. Because cushions combine ease of use, light coverage, long wear and added skin care benefits, they are likely to appeal to Western facial cosmetics users but the technology needs to be adapted to local needs.
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