HAIR CARE
Table 2: Treatment solutions. Raw materials:
INCI names
SLES CAPB CG
Polysorbate-80 Dimethicone PQ – 22 PQ – 55
Citric acid (20% w/w soln) Aqua (deionised)
Control CAPB % w/w
5.0 2.5 - -
- -
q.s. to 100
with leave-on conditioners containing cationic polymers. No relationship between the colour protection and the molecular weight of the polymers was found. The colour protective properties of cationics, based on the formation of hydrophobic protective film on the hair, were also reported by Zhou et al4
and
Rigoletto et al.4 Other, less polar materials such as
silicone polymers, are attracted to the hair surface by strong hydrophobic Van de Walls forces, as the cuticle is largely hydrophobic. Schlosser et al7
measured silicone
deposition from permanent hair dye and related it to the measurements of hair colour fading after consecutive wash-and- dry cycles, evidencing a positive effect of dimethicone on colour retention. Furthermore, when combined application of polyquaterniums and silicones in a shampoo was investigated by Gamez- Garcia et al8
Control CG
% w/w 5.0
-
2.5 -
- -
q.s. to 100
CAPB+ PQ-22 % w/w
5.0 2.5 - -
1.0 q.s. to 100
CAPB+ PQ-55 % w/w
5.0 2.5 - -
-
1.0 q.s.
to 100
CAPB+
Dimethicone % w/w
5.0 2.5 -
5.0 1.0 - -
q.s. to 100
Materials and methods Investigational materials Surfactants included in the screening tests: Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), cocoamidopropyl betain (CAPB), coco- glucoside (CG), disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, and a surfactants blend of sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate and coco monoethanolamine. Investigational materials included in the
treatment tests: SLES, cocoamidopropyl betain (CAPB), coco-glucoside (CG), polyquaternioum-28, polyquaternium-55 and dimethocone. Further descriptions of the properties of the investigational materials, relevent to this study are given in Table 1. Substrate: Identical Caucasian virgin
applying combined fluorescent
techniques, a synergistic depositioning effect was observed. This project investigated the effects of surfactants and conditioning additives on the colour-fading of hair tresses, treated with red oxidative hair dye and put through consecutive wash-and-dry cycles.
15
n Co-surfactant soak test n Co-surfactant + SLES soak test
10.41 10 7.97 7.02 5.7 5 3.87 8.32 7.95 13.62
brown hair tresses (weight = 3 g; length = approx. 15 cm) were first bleached and then dyed, using standardised protocol and a commercially available oxidative red hair dye.
Methods Co-surfactant screening tests Co-surfactants soak test (adaptation from Zhou et al9
CG+
PQ-22 % w/w
5.0 --
2.5 -
1.0 -
q.s. to 100
CG+
PG-55 % w/w
5.0 -
2.5 -
-
1.0 q.s.
to 100 q.s. to 100
each solution and allowed to soak for one hour. The hair tress was then removed from the surfactant solution, rinsed under constant tap water (t = approx 20˚C) for two minutes and blow dried for five minutes at t = 50˚C. Co-surfactants+SLES soak test: 400 mL
solutions comprising 2.5% w/w of a respective co-surfactant mixed with 5% w/w SLES were prepared. The remaining stages of this test were identical to the co- surfactant soak test. Treatment wash tests: Treatment
solutions were prepared comprising SLES, the selected co-surfactants, and three conditioning additives (Table 2). A dyed hair tress was immersed in a 2.5% solution of each test combination (preheated to 40˚C) for four minutes, under controlled mechanical agitation. The remaining stages of the test were the same as the screening test. The cycle was repeated ten times for each hair tress. Three hair tresses were tested per variable. Colour measurments: Before and after a
): 400 mL solutions of 5% w/w
of each respective surfactant were prepared and a test hair tress was immersed in
complete wash-and-dry cycle each treated hair tress was attached securely to a white ceramic tile and spectrophotometric measurements were taken at three points evenly distributed along its length [Spectrophotometer CM-2600D, Konica Minolta, Japan, illuminator = D65 (daylight), viewing angle = 10˚]. The average colour change ∆E for each
treatment was calculated, based on pre- and post-treatment measurements of each hair tress: ∆E=√(∆L2
+∆a2 +∆b2 ). 0 CAPB CG Co-surfactants
Figure 1: Total colour changes in hair tresses treated via soak test with a range of co-surfactants vs. their respective blends with 5% SLES.
DLS Surfactant blend
The colour retention value for each formulation combination, containing a co- surfactant and a conditioning additive, was calculated as follows: %=∆E (active treatment) – ∆E (control) x100/∆E (control). Statistical analysis: One-way ANOVA test
was applied to the mean ∆E values and % colour retention of the formulations containing different conditioning additives, followed by Tukey Honest Significant
September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 47
CG+
Dimethicone % w/w
5.0 -
2.5 5.0 1.0
Delta E
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