SCS NATURALS CONFERENCE
very excited about is biosurfactants, but also added they are not quite there yet for the cosmetics industry. Will Cannon said that biotechnology was a disruptive technology but provides access to new molecules and has already shown incredible results in pharmaceuticals. However in that industry, money is no object. Croda has a long history of working in biotechnology (since 1968, in fact, with lactic acid production), and currently the company is working towards biotech sources of surfactants, antimicrobials, UV protection, and humectants, via collaborations and acquisitions. George Rosson of Natura-tec ended the session discussing the use of micro-algae to produce novel skin care ingredients, such as Natura-tec’s Marine BlueVital C. These unicellular organisms are vital to the planet, releasing two-thirds of the available oxygen. They are considered miniature chemical factories and also represent the first link in the food chain, with potential to supplement nutrition in poor countries. These incredible organisms can produce proteins, lipids carbohydrates, carotenoids, omega-3 and 6, DHAs, and EPAs. They adapt to the environment and react to stresses, slowing down cellular ageing. The microorganisms are cultivated in a closed photobioreactor, which offers low risk of contamination and also allows close control of conditions.
Session 4
John Lofthouse of CLR opened Session 4 (Skin, Anti-ageing & Efficacy) with a presentation on using natural actives to support the epidermis, featuring the company’s ProRenew Complex CLR ingredient. He began by describing the way old skin differs from young skin, with older skin becoming stretched and turnover becoming slower, with the quality of cells lower.
The reason for the change is manifold. Sunlight, pathogens, hygiene, humidity and mechanical stress all play a part in the process. John Lofthouse then introduced an ingredient is obtained from a lysate of the probiotic Gram-positive bacterial species Lactococcus lactis, which is fermented under special conditions of catabolic repression.
The ingredient acts by stimulation of expression of relevant genes, such as occludin – which anchors the tight junctions. This is very important for barrier function. Also kallikrein 3 and 7 which are essential enzymes in desquamation. Jean-Yves Berthon of Greentech followed with a look at biotechnologies that aid complexion, protection and anti-ageing. In his presentation he said microalgae populate all aquatic ecosystems and are
classified according to their pigmentation: green, brown, and red. Jean-Yves continued with an example of Porphyridium cruentum, a marine microalgae that is a potent vascoconstrictor and works to reduce rosacea, a major issue for many people. The ingredient, Silidine, has been shown to significantly decrease redness on the face by 19%. Jean-Yves Berthon also discussed using ferments for the transformation of plant extracts, as per the company’s Ferment’Actives range, which includes Pomegranate Ferment’Active for anti-ageing benefits.
Session 4 was concluded by Dr Oscar
Exposito Torres of Phyture Biotech who discussed molecular synergy with a new generation of plant extracts. Phyture Biotech specifically culture the totipotent cells and they are harvested by wounding the plant which promotes their production. The company’s technology platform is known as PRCF (Plasma Rich in Cell Factors), and it was described as superior to traditional extraction techniques because traditional techniques are too inefficient from a biological view, losing many molecules that potentially work in combination. With PRCF you include secondary metabolites and many other bioactive molecules.
Session 5
The final session (Botanicals & Biosurfactants) was opened by Andrea Maltagliati of Principium who revealed a novel concept for guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of actives. Their objective is to retain the most valuable assets of natural ingredients while avoiding some of the more unreliable aspects such as availability, extract standardisation, etc. Andrea Maltagliati used several case studies to illustrate the methodology to show that the company can guarantee efficacy results through tested performance products selected on their capacity to reproduce a targeted activity. Dr Judata Wibawa of Alliance Boots followed with his presentation on skin pigmentation. It was fascinating to learn about the ‘canvass’ of the human skin and how the colours are built up through collagen and body fat which give an even glow and reflect light. On top of this is a red colour from blood, and an orange from carotenes. Yellow/brown hues come from lipofuscin and red/brown from pheomelanin. Brown/black tones are from eumelanin. All these together create skin colour. After describing the process by which melanin is distributed throughout the body, Judata Wibawa discussed the many factors controlling melanogenesis (Agouti signalling, stress, Wnt signalling). There are many naturals that can help to adjust melanin
Dr Judata Wibawa of Alliance Boots gave his presentation on skin pigmentation.
levels, such as are thenols or plythenols which work in different ways but a study conducted on the effects of Sophora angustifolia suggests that a combination seems to work the best. Tony Gough of Innospec went into some detail about the current crop of plants that offer some of the properties needed for a truly green personal care surfactant, such as soapbark and Indian soapnut. But all of these fall down, either due to colour issues, odour, their textural profile; but probably most often because of the cost. Producing enough of the surfactant to be even remotely useful on a large scale at a sensible cost is simply not possible. Most of today’s surfactants are biodegradable but the majority are from petrochemical origins. Tony Gough’s presentation posed the question – do we really need a completely natural surfactant when we have perfectly good partly natural ones? The answer coming from the marketers is likely to be ‘yes’, but there is much to be said for the improved ‘green’ profiles of currently available surfactants that offer both a pleasing marketing angle in addition to all the sensorial attributes of the best petrochemical-based surfactants. The day ended with presentations from
Dr Paul Mouser of Ashland, who discussed the company’s BiotHAIRapy platform, and Dr Nicole Giraud of DNA Gensee, who looked at metabarcoding. Paul Mouser’s presentation looked in detail at hair biology and in particular the anagen bulb – the hair shaft factory – and also discussed some of the natural-based ingredients Ashland has on offer in this market.
Metabarcoding is a system that finds a standardised barcode discriminating between plants and can be used for molecular diagnosis. This can be very useful for plant analysis as well as the identification of plant species when product is no longer identifiable.
PC September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 19
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