HAIR CARE Root Middle Tip


Figure 3: ToFSIMS images compiled using the mass spectrometer data, each pixel represents a mass spec peak. The green highlighted areas represent deposition of active onto different parts of the hair fibre.


extensive knowledge of biopolymer and keratin products, a new synthesis methodology has been developed in order to create defined molecular mass species from a keratin source.


The first hurdle to overcome involves breaking the disulfide bridges present in keratin. These disulfide bridges create a helix shape that is extremely robust, as sulfur atoms from cysteine residues bond to each other from across the helix, creating a fibrous matrix which is not readily soluble. Once the disulphide bridges have been cleaved, a dual system of endoprotease and exopeptidase enzymes are used to hydrolyse keratin to yield the peptides of interest. The use of this novel synthesis process ensures the keratin mimetic ingredient contains biofunctional


Table 1: Control shampoo formulation. Product Water


INCI Name Aqua


Crodateric CAB 301 Euxyl K1002


Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate [23% Active SLES solution] Aqua (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine


Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone


(and) Methylisothiazolinone Sodium Chloride


Suppliers: 1 Croda 2 Schülke & Mayr


Table 2: Shampoo formulation containing 0.2% active of the keratin mimetic. Product Water


INCI Name Aqua


Crodateric CAB 301 Versathix1


Kerestore 2.01 Crovol A701 Euxyl K1002


Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate [23% Active SLES solution] Aqua (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine


PEG150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG2 Hydroxethyl Cocamide (and) Aqua


Aqua (and) Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin PEG60 Almond Glycerides


Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone)


Suppliers: 1 Croda 2 Schülke & Mayr 42 PERSONAL CARE September 2015


peptides that replicate amino acid sequences naturally found in hair keratin proteins. Croda has proven this using the science of proteomics. The peptide sequences of the keratin components of this ingredient were determined by Tandem Mass Spectrometry technique (MSMS), equipped with electrospray ionisation (ESI), time of flight (ToF)–MS in coupling with quadruple MS (ESIQUADTOFMSMS). A Basic Local Alignment Search Tool (BLAST) was used to screen each peptide to see which human hair keratin proteins contained the peptide in question. These biofunctional peptides are ideal chemical precursors for cationic conditioning agents as they contain amino functional groups as part of their structure. The final step in the process involves


% w/w qs


20.00 15.00 0.15


qs


grafting quaternary ammonium groups onto the peptide backbone to become covalently bound. The resulting product is a mixture of biofunctional peptides with a chemically bound quaternary ammonium group, which imparts a cationic charge. These cationic groups enhance the product’s substantivity to anionic substrates, such as hair. As a result the product enhances consumer sensory and conditioning properties.


Claim substantiation of targeted repair Constantly under attack from everyday styling, chemical processing and UV exposure, the hair cuticle has a major impact on the appearance and manageability of the hair. Damage to the cuticle directly affects the look, feel and condition of the hair.


% w/w qs


20.00 5.00 3.00


1.00 0.50 0.15


Analysis of a hair fibre from root to tip demonstrates that the degree of damage to the cuticle increases towards the tip as exposure to chemical treatments and mechanical manipulation takes its toll. At the root which is the closest resemblance to virgin hair the least amount of damage has occurred of any section of the hair while repetitive combing, drying, straightening and curling all start to impact upon the health of the midsection of the hair. After months of exposure to colourants, chemical treatments and various other styling treatments, the hair tip has the most cuticular damage. Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectroscopy (ToFSIMS) is a novel method of acquiring detailed information about the surface chemistry of hair. ToFSIMS is a technique which provides detailed information about the surface chemistry of human hair by visually mapping the hair fibre and the deposition of actives on the hair fibre. The ToFSIMS method shown


schematically in Figure 2 involves the firing of primary ions directed to the surface of a


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