SCS NATURALS CONFERENCE
effect but it is not powerful and they also cause discolouration of the formulation. On the other hand α-, β-unsaturated aldehydes have great performance but suffer as sensitisers. Essential oils and terpenes produce odours which can either be a benefit or a limitation, and also have issues with sensitisation and oxidation. However, with oxidative decomposition, the antimicrobial efficiency actually improves.
Session 2
The second session was a Supplier’s Showcase and gave an opportunity to Mark Evans of Inolex to discuss solutions for formulators from an ingredient manufacturer’s perspective. This lively presentation looked at how science can blend the worlds of nature and cosmetics using polymers, which are not often thought of as natural (LipFeel Natural and Vellaplex).
Marine Capron from Brasca discussed her company’s Olifeel range which uses olive by-product from the food industry and as an ingredient re-balances the original protective film of the skin. Irina Deloire from Lucas Meyer presented on phospholipid- based emulsifiers which are able to trigger an emotional impact in consumers. Phospholipids are used in nanomedicine, the food industry and cosmetics. They offer naturalness, high tolerance and multifunctionality. As the building blocks of all cellular membranes they are naturally produced in the human body and are biomimetic, providing a ‘second skin’ when applied topically which is known as ‘the phospholipid touch’.
Giada Maramaldi of Indena discussed olibanum terpenes and opened by remarking that not all Boswellia species are the same and all have different characteristics. Their collection method does not harm the tree and the resulting ingredient has anti-inflammatory potential. A study also showed reduction of UV damage and soothing/anti-redness efficacy. The final presentation of the Supplier’s Showcase was from Ev Suess of Symrise who talked about the concept of ‘well ageing’ which means preventing or slowing down the ageing signs. After 36,000 global interviews, Symrise found out what women are most willing to pay for, and the number one criteria was fine lines and wrinkles. This study led to a series of products including SymVital Age Repair (ginger root extract), SymMatrix (blackberry leaf extract) and SymFinity (Echinacea).
The Supplier’s Showcase was followed by the opportunity to enjoy a tour of the physic garden.
After the break Dr Matthias Vey of IFRA presented an in-depth update on fragrance allergens. He said that 3,000 fragrance
18 PERSONAL CARE September 2015 The first day ended with a very lively discussion on the merits of genetic modification.
The event benefited from a ‘physic garden’ tour that emphasised the power of natural resources.
materials are in use and there will always be sensitisers within these. The process of sensitisation involves two steps. First there is a process of induction which offers no symptoms, and then elicitation (the second time a contact is made). Dermal sensitisation is a threshold phenomenon and therefore it is down to quantity. It is also important to remember that it is impossible to completely stop people becoming sensitised to an ingredient. Virginie D’Enfert of FEBEA then delivered a slightly worrying presentation on the Nagoya Protocol. This was troubling because there seems to be very little consensus as to what the actual ramifications are.
The Protocol aims to help conserve biodiversity by ensuring that fair and equitable benefits are shared when using genetic resources. This ultimately means payments are made to the originating countries/regions.
There is much legal uncertainty surrounding the Protocol because it remains very large in its definition of R&D activities. There are also confidentiality issues and national rules are different from one to another. Personal Care will cover the Nagoya Protocol in depth in one of our next issues.
The day ended with a very lively discussion on the merits of genetic modification. Although the panel was split regarding whether it was a largely positive or negative thing, both sides agreed that
genetically modified crops should only be grown in closed systems. However, there was a difference of opinion as to whether a closed system could ever be considered entirely safe due to the unavoidability of human error.
Day 2 Session 3 Jean-Paul Leonetti of Deinove opened the second day on new technology for cosmetic ingredient production with a presentation on biotechnology – a source of innovation. He said there was a mission to replace petroleum-based molecules with biobased alternatives and proposed the exceptional properties of Deinococcus bacteria as a potential aid to this process. So far this incredible bacteria has created biofuels, fragrances, feed, food, and cosmetics. There are 6,000 strains with many novel strains among these. Deinococcus was discovered in 1956 and was notable for its resistance to radiation and oxidative stress, which suggested potential for DNA repair as well as anti-ageing. It is completely non- pathogenic and has been used to biosynthesise carotenoids.
This presentation was followed by Will Cannon of Croda whose talk was on green, blue and white biotechnology. He began by saying that his company was very much committed to sustainability and is conscious about environmental impact. One area he mentioned that Croda were
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