Harald van der Hoeven, Dr Heiko Prade – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter GmbH, Germany
SKIN CARE
Epidermal anti-ageing with a probiotic skin care approach
While most anti-ageing products promise to fight signs of ageing and turn back time, older skin care users are reported to be perfectly comfortable with their age. As they do not feel old, they are not compellingly interested in looking younger but in looking the best way they can. And that means above all as healthy as possible. Healthy-looking skin is closely related to the actual main purpose of our skin, to function as a physical barrier between our body and the harmful outside world. Being our skin’s top layer, the epidermis is responsible for maintaining this function. Ageing has a significant impact on the
renewal processes in the epidermis. The proliferation rate of the keratinocytes in the basal layer becomes progressively reduced and is reported to be up to 50% slower in people 80+ years old. The effectiveness of the differentiation process is reduced, which also means that the production of key elements in the skin’s barrier function and quality is impaired. Additionally, ageing leads to a loss of so-called immuno- competence in the epidermis. To safeguard the skin’s ability to uphold
its barrier function, the epidermis can and must act as a ‘biosensor’. Challenges, such as a fluctuation in environmental humidity or sunlight, etc., can actually be ‘perceived’ by the differentiating keratinocytes, which are able to instantly react and compensate for the challenge’s negative influence on the skin’s barrier function. At the basis of this characteristic lies the ability of the
a
differentiating keratinocytes to react immunologically. A loss of effectiveness in the skin’s renewal processes and reduced immunocompetence are essential factors in why aged skin looks less healthy and therefore are essential targets in supplying modern-day consumers with satisfactory anti-ageing skin care products. CLR has developed ProRenew Complex (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate),
CLRTM
based on a lysate of Lactococcus lactis, to strengthen the immune system of the skin cells and to stimulate the skins self- renewal. This probiotic lactic acid-producing bacterium is grown under specific conditions, after which the obtained cells are lysed, a process involving the killing and destruction of the bacterial cells. ProRenew Complex CLR contains the cell debris of the probiotic bacteria, like cell wall materials as well as cytoplasmic compounds and metabolites. Probiotic bacteria are well-established in
the food industry, and their benefits for the human body are described in many scientific, peer-reviewed papers. In the gut they beneficially influence the composition and metabolic activity of the endogenous bacteria, and some probiotic strains are even able to inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria. Probiotic bacteria are also reported to be able to modulate the immune system, essentially improving immunocompetence and, therefore, our body’s ability to adapt to negative influences. Interestingly, it is not the whole living probiotic bacterial cell which is
b
needed for the latter activity, it is the constituents and metabolites from these bacteria which are essential. A lysate of Lactococcus lactis, as in ProRenew Complex CLR (now referred to as ‘Lactococcus ferment lysate’), which essentially contains the cell debris of this bacterium, should show and, in the studies performed by CLR, has shown that it is able to improve both the skin renewal processes and the processes involved in the skin’s adaptation to negative influences.
In vitro Histological evaluation of markers which are essential for successful skin development Epidermal skin models (epiCS, CellSystems GmbH, Germany) were grown during a period of 14 days. On Day 4 the daily application of Lactococcus ferment lysate (3% in medium) started and was continued until Day 12. Because, on Day 4, the three-dimensional growth of the epidermal skin models was still in an early stage, this experiment allowed the assessment of whether experimental manipulation had an influence on their growth. On Day 6 no application of Lactococcus ferment lysate took place. Alternatively to the application of Lactococcus ferment lysate, in order to obtain a suitable control, the epidermal skin models were treated with vehicle (cell culture medium). The epidermal skin models were grown at 37˚C, 5% CO2 and 95% relative humidity.
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Figure 1: Expression of transglutaminase-1 with a) 3% ProRenew Complex CLR, is clearly higher than in the b) control. September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 63
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