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SKIN CARE


Group A (smokers)


0


–2.0 –4.0 –6.0 –8.0 –10.0 –12.0 –14.0 –16.0


Group B (non-smokers) D0 fluorescence intensity: +++ D28 fluorescence intensity: +


–8.5**


Figure 4: The effect of TE formulated at 3% on the quantity of oxidised proteins in group A. –13.4*


Significant difference according to Student’s


t-test on paired data: *


P<0.05 ** P<0.10


Figure 3: Effect of TE formulated at 3% on the quantity of oxidised proteins of the skin after 28 days of treatment in comparison to the placebo.


Study of the level of oxidised proteins In the conditions of this study, in comparison to a placebo and after 28 days of twice daily treatment, TE significantly reduces the level of oxidised proteins:  By 13.4% in subjects exposed to cigarette smoke (group A – smokers) (P=0.0054). This effect was found in 70% of the volunteers;


 By 8.5% in subjects of group B (non- smokers) (P=0.0990). This effect was found in 70% of the volunteers.


In the conditions of this study, TE formulated at 3% in an emulsion limits the formation of oxidised proteins; levels in the group of smokers decreases to those comparable to the group of non-smokers treated with the placebo. The difference was no longer significant on D28 (P=0.2857).


Study of complexion radiance In the conditions of this study, in comparison to a placebo and after 28 days of twice daily treatment, TE significantly improves complexion radiance in volunteers


16.0 14.0 12.0 10.0 8.0 6.0 4.0 2.0 0


n Group A (smokers) n Group B (non-smokers)


10.4* 8.2* 7.7* 6 7 Transparency Reflection


Figure 5: Effect of TE formulated at 3% on complexion radiance after 28 days of treatment in comparison to the placebo.


of group A (smokers) and group B (non- smokers) (Fig. 5). In volunteers of group A (smokers):


 The parameter of transparency of the skin increases by 10.4% (P=0.0016). This effect was observed in 85% of volunteers.


 The parameter of reflection of the skin increases by 13.5% (P=0.0009). This effect was observed in 70% of volunteers. In volunteers of group B (non-smokers):


 The parameter of transparency of the skin increases by 8.2% (P=0.0218). This effect was observed in 65% of volunteers.


 The parameter of reflection of the skin increases by 7.7% (P=0.0051). This effect was observed in 70% of volunteers.


TE enhances the complexion radiance in the group of smokers to a level comparable to that of the group of non- smokers treated with the placebo; the difference was no longer significant on D28 (P=0.6031 for transparency and P=0.8473 for reflection).


Conclusion The skin is subjected to continuous aggression by environmental stress, insidiously causing its premature ageing. The skin has its own mechanisms to fight the harmful effects of this chronic exposure


Significant difference according to Student’s


13.5*


t-test on paired data: *


P<0.05 5


but they are overburdening when mobilised too often. In order to act on the harmful effects of pollutants, it has been shown that the Apolluskin active ingredient [Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion) Extract] significantly regulates the AhR-CYP1A1 signalling pathway involved in maintaining the toxicity of pollutants in the skin. Thus, TE helps to restore the skin


natural antipollution shield. The accumulation of oxidised proteins decreases, the transparency and the reflection of polluted skin, two essential parameters for a radiant complexion, are significantly improved. In the context of a global antipollution


strategy that mobilises the endogenous defence mechanisms of the skin, the active ingredient TE may be combined with another active ingredient targeting cellular machinery with elevated detoxifying capacity, such as autophagy.


PC


References 1


Lewtas J, Gallagher J. Complex mixtures of urban air pollutants: identification and comparative assessment of mutagenic and tumorigenic chemicals and emission sources. IARC Sci Publ 1990; (104): 252 60.


2


Morita A, Torii K, Maeda A, Yamaguchi Y. Molecular basis of tobacco smoke-induced premature skin aging. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 2009; 14 (1): 53 5.


3 4


Ikuta T, Namiki T, Fujii-Kuriyama Y, Kawajiri K. AhR protein trafficking and function in the skin. Biochem Pharmacol 2009; 77 (4): 588-96.


Abel J, Haarmann-Stemmann T. An introduction to the molecular basics of aryl hydrocarbon receptor biology. Biol Chem 2010; 391 (11): 1235-48.


Mandal PK. Dioxin: a review of its environmental effects and its aryl hydrocarbon receptor biology. J Comp Physiol B 2005; 175 (4): 221 30.


Vierkötter A, Schikowski T, Ranft U et al. Airborne particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging. J Invest Dermatol 2010; 130 (12): 2719-26.


European Food Safety Authority. Alexander J, Benford D, Cockburn A et al. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in food – scientific opinion of the Panel on Contaminants in the Food Chain. The EFSA Journal 2008; 724: 1-114


September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 79


Variation/placebo (%)


Variation/placebo (%)


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