NEWS DIGEST Efficacy data revealed
DSM has shared new research findings confirming extra efficacy on skin by Regu- Scence, a pure white asparagus extract from the Navarra region. The molecule, launched by DSM in 2014, proved to be highly effective in anti- ageing applications. Thanks to its mechanism of action it delays the cellular ageing process by stimulating the skin’s own autophagy capabilities.
The findings, in a pair of published studies
by Murase et al and De Mazière et al, as well as new DSM in vitro data, suggest that the autophagy process plays a key role in melanogenesis. Several proteins, such as Melan-A and Pmel-17, are involved in early melanosome formation. Stimulation of the autophagy pathway leads to increased synthesis of lysosomes, which are capable of degrading these proteins, leading to a reduction of melanosomes, and ultimately, a more even skin tone.
Recent scientific tests on pigmented epidermis equivalents conducted by DSM indicates the efficacy of Regu-Scence at 3%
Award dedicated to show supporter
The Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) is to introduce a new competition to find the year’s most Innovative Cosmetic Formulation. The challenge is to create the most innovative cosmetic formulation of 2015 and the competition is open to all exhibitors at this year’s SCS Formulate (17-18 November, Ricoh Arena, Coventry, UK). The winning formulation will be announced during SCS Formulate 2015.
to enhance the appearance of a more even skin tone. In vitro, this ingredient has shown a significant down-regulation of tyrosinase marker by up to 65% and of the recently discovered Melan-A marker by up to 30% in a 9-day test.
Report updates on sustainability activity
Naturex’s new 2015 Pathfinder Report includes both an update on current sustainability actions and the company’s new global 2020 goals. Olivier Rigaud, Naturex’s CEO, comments: “Sustainability is vital for our business because nature nurtures all our future developments. It is a key pillar of our Bright 2020 Strategic Plan. Our long-term growth relies on our capability to take into account sustainability in our daily work.” Recently added to the company’s portfolio,
Quillaia is an example of the company’s approach toward people and environment. Native to Chile, Quillaia saponaria, the soap bark tree, is a hardy perennial evergreen. The extract obtained from the wood is used in the food, cosmetics and health industries as a natural foaming agent and as an emulsifier. The extract is harvested in accordance with Chilean Forest Authority’s requirements, locally extracted and responsibly processed.
Ingredient review panel
Croda contributed its expertise to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel in Washington DC earlier this summer through its Sederma division.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel routinely analyses and assesses the safety of individual ingredients that are used in cosmetic products, and has worked for 35 years in partnership with the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the cosmetic industry to make sure the most up-to-date information is captured for cosmetic ingredients. On 15 June 2015, a representative from Sederma delivered expert contributions to a discussion around ingredients produced from plant cell technology that falls under the expertise of
6 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
IRB by Sederma (Instituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche SpA), a pioneer in the use of this technology for the cosmetic industry. To assist their review of various cosmetic ingredients derived from Centella asiatica, the panel had requested an expert to provide them with a better understanding of Centella derivatives from plant cell culture, namely callus culture and meristem cell culture, and how those products might differ in composition compared to other plant extracts.
Sederma’s presentation on plant cell culture technology for the cosmetic industry provided the panel with an understanding that allowed them to issue a final ruling, concluding that these products are safe for cosmetic use.
“I recently saw a quote saying ‘The best way to kill an idea is to take it to a meeting’,” said SCS President, Steve Barton. “I believe the best way to grow an idea is to share it. And if it’s an idea for a cosmetic formulation, there’s nowhere better than SCS Formulate!” The SCS is dedicating the Innovative
Cosmetic Formulation award to Laura Marshall, who passed away so suddenly and tragically in October 2014. Laura made a huge contribution to the Society, organising many events, but she was particularly closely associated with SCS Formulate. The SCS wants to mark her contributions and remember her.
Cold weather protection
for the skin The latest in vivo study carried out by Lipotec on Antarcticine marine ingredient confirmed the active’s ability to counteract the effects of extreme weather on the skin. This biotechnological ingredient with cryoprotective properties shields and regenerates the skin as well as reduces wrinkles for a firm and young complexion.
In the new efficacy assessment, the volunteers with signs of dry skin and wrinkles were asked to spend 1 hour a day outdoors in cold weather conditions. Over 30 days, they applied a cream with 1% of Antarcticine marine ingredient on one side of the face and a placebo on the other, twice a day. The participants experienced a significant increase in moisturisation after one week, reaching a 13.5% after 15 days. The Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) level decreased by 12.1% after 15 days and up to 14.7% after 30 days. The red complexion, a very common result of the skin being exposed to cold, was reduced significantly in all the measurements, and a more toned and compact skin appearance was observed.
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