HAIR CARE
INCI composition of the shampoo containing the active ingredient Unitrienol 7-27 at 2%: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate, Decylglucose, Natrium Hydroxide, Cocamidopropylbetain, PEG 40 Hydr. Castor Oil, Unitrienol T-27, Carbopol ETD 2020, Unigerm G-2, Polyquaternium-10, Perfume.
INCI composition of the placebo shampoo: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate, Decylglucose, Natrium Hydroxide, Cocamidopropylbetain, Peg 40 Hydr. Castor Oil, Carbopol ETD 2020, Unigerm G-2, Polyquaternium-10, Perfume.
Sebum investigation on human skin: forehead test method The quantity of sebaceous matter on the skin surface was measured using a sebumeter in accordance with the method developed by H. Schaefer and H. Kuhn-Bussius.38
The principle of the
method is based on the fact that when roughened glass or roughened plastic film is pressed against the skin it absorbs grease from the latter and thereby becoming transparent. The degree of transparency depends on the amount of grease on the skin and is measured photometrically. The sebumeter is in principle a ‘grease spot’ photometer. By pressing a matte plastic strip against the skin some of the latter’s grease is taken up and can be photometrically measured by the brightening effect it produces on the roughened glass.
Panel description and test procedure Twenty subjects (10 men and 10 women) under 30 years of age with predominantly seborrheic skin or mixed to greasy skin were included in the study. The subjects treated their skin with the cream containing the active ingredient twice a day over 45 days and then stopped its use in the five subsequent weeks. The skin grease level was measured on the forehead about 2 cm above the nose. Individual measurements were made at intervals of approximately 10 days, and no cream
35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
0 Duration of treatment (45 days)
Persisting action after stopping the treatment
10
20 Days
Figure 2: Content of sebaceous matter in the skin after application of a cosmetic cream containing the active ingredient (sebumeter analysis).
being used the day before the measurement and on the evaluation day.
Sebum investigation on human hair and human scalp: test method of assessment of the oily hair grade The assessment of the efficacy of the shampoo was based on a clinical scoring of the ‘oily aspect of the hair roots’ according to a 7-grade scale (from R0 to R6). The grade R0 corresponds to ‘no oily’ aspect and the grade R6 correspond to ‘very oily aspect’. The scoring was performed at D0, D14, D28, and D35. The data were analysed according to the percentage of reduction of the clinical scoring retrieved at each study time. Quantitative sebumetric analysis was
also performed on the forehead skin (median area at the hairline) and on the scalp of the volunteers with the Sebumeter SM 815 (Courage & Khazaka) at the beginning of the study (D0), after 14 days of useand after 28 days of use of the tested product . Another measurement was taken on
D35, 7 days after stopping the treatment (use of their usual product). For each time (D0, D14, D28 and D35), three measurements were taken on the median
Table 1: Content of sebaceous matter in the skin after application of a cosmetic cream containing the active ingredient and % of decrease in comparison to day 0.
Time Day 0
After 10 days After 20 days After 30 days After 45 days After 80 days
Sebum quantity (mean±standard
28.87±7.9 21.3±7.4 17.4±5.1 18.36±6.2 18.26±5.9 19.92±6.3
36 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
Average variation (%) vs. T0 (sebumeter analysis)
–26.00 –39.00 –36.00 –36.8 –44.8
forehead skin (median area at the hairline). The average and standard deviation of these three values was calculated and kept as the experimental value.
Panel description and test procedure Twenty-eight healthy women and men adult volunteers with oily hair and scalp skin, ages ranging from 22 to 68 years old, with a mean sebum rate >80 µg/cm2
were
included in the study. Among 28 subjects, 14 used either shampoo with active ingredients or placebo for 28 days. Then they used their usual shampoo from D28 to D35. They were asked to use the shampoo 3 or 4 times per week on wet hair, to massage gently to lather and then rinsed off. Before each visit to the laboratory (D14, D28, D35), volunteers were required to wash their hair on the previous morning. The volunteers, using a questionnaire, assessed the cosmetic performance of the shampoo.
Results and discussion of the clinical assessments During the clinical evaluation, the use of the cream containing the active ingredients (farnesol, farnesyl acetate and panthenyl triacetate) applied on a greasy forehead has decreased the sebum content by about 40% after 30 days of treatment (Table 1) achieving a rate generally corresponding to that of normal skin. The sebum reduction observed persists also after cessation of the treatment (Fig. 2), showing the long lasting effect of the mix of the active ingredients. The reduction of oily roots on the scalp
was expected to be more difficult, as the active ingredients were formulated in a rinse-off formula (shampoo) with a short contact time with the scalp (estimated to be between 30 seconds to 2 minutes).
30
40
80
Sebum content of the skin (a.u.)
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