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SKIN CARE


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Cathelicidin (LL-37)


β Defensin-1


Figure 6: Stimulation of cathelicidin (LL-37) and βDefensin-1 expression.


process, e.g. the production of keratin 10 in keratinocytes.


Cathelicidin (LL-37) Like β Defensin-1, LL-37 is constitutively expressed by keratinocytes. This expression is dependent on the status of the differentiation process. It is worthy of note that LL-37 production is up-regulated upon wounding or a bacterial challenge. This is a process which has been described to lose its functionality in aged skin. LL-37 shows strong antimicrobial activity against many different Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, like streptococci and Staphylococcus aureus, but is also able to effectively fight C. albicans. LL-37 fulfils many other roles as well. It plays an important part in strengthening the immune reaction of skin against external challenges. In this context, LL-37 is described to function as a so-called ‘alarmin’, a substance which is responsible for ‘communicating damage’ in order to activate healing processes. This is one of the reasons why it is important to induce LL-37 production in elderly skin, as elderly skin shows reduced immuno-competence.


11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4


n 3% ProRenew Complex CLR n Placebo


Method Values were determined after 48 h (Cathelicidin, LL-37) and 72 h (β Defensin- 1, BD-1) pre-incubation in the presence of 1% Lactococcus ferment lysate. The keratinocytes were lysed before an ELISA assay was performed (HyCult Biotech). Control was set at 100%.


Results


Lactococcus ferment lysate was able to significantly boost the production of both cathelicidin and β Defensin-1 (Fig. 6). This attribute strongly indicates that Lactococcus ferment lysate can support the epidermis in maintaining a healthy, nonpathogenic skin microbiome, another key feature to be addressed in ageing skin.


In vivo In order to further prove that Lactococcus ferment lysate is able to support ageing skin in its renewal processes, an in vivo study was conducted, where both the speed and the quality of the skin’s renewal processes were assessed. In this study, test products were applied on designated skin areas on the inner forearm of 5 female volunteers (47-63 years old) for 2 weeks, twice daily. After that, tape stripping was performed to remove stratum corneum and induce skin damage, and the application was continued twice daily for another 4 days. Skin renewal and barrier recovery were determined by measuring stratum corneum thickness and TEWL at different time points after tape stripping.


Skin renewal By measuring the thickness of the stratum corneum 1 hour, 2 and 4 days after tape stripping, it was clearly shown that the skin treated with Lactococcus ferment lysate, as compared to the skin treated with placebo, showed a significantly accelerated growth of the stratum corneum (Fig. 7). Additionally, with Lactococcus ferment lysate, a pronounced positive trend could be seen in the kinetics of the speed with which the


100 80 60 40 20 0 1 hour Day 2 Figure 7: Acceleration of skin renewal. 66 PERSONAL CARE September 2015 Day 4 t=0 1 hour Figure 8: Stimulation of barrier recovery. Day 2 Day 4


n Positive control n Placebo n 3% ProRenew Complex CLR


Skin barrier recovery The skin treated with Lactococcus ferment lysate clearly showed an increased rate in the recovery of a healthy barrier function of skin (Fig. 8). Additionally, a pronounced positive trend could be seen in the kinetics of the speed with which barrier recovery took place. (Method: TewameterTM 210 – Courage & Khazaka, Germany)


Conclusion It was shown that ProRenew Complex CLR, which is based on a lysate of probiotic bacteria, can significantly support the most important feature of skin, its ability to quickly and effectively renew itself. Probiotics are renowned for their ability to support our body’s immune system. With ProRenew Complex CLR, this characteristic was successfully translated to cosmetic skin care. The lysed probiotic cells in ProRenew Complex CLR are able to give a strong boost to the skin’s renewal processes, accelerating it as well as improving its quality. This was shown both in in vitro and in vivo studies, from the gene level to the protein and enzyme level, and by making use of ECIS to monitor cell proliferation and cell cohesion. In the in vivo studies the results obtained in the in vitro studies were demonstrated with extraordinary clarity. After removing the stratum corneum by tape stripping, renewal of the skin and the recovery of its barrier function were shown to be accelerated by the use of ProRenew Complex CLR. It thus improves the healthy functioning of our skin and satisfies the main demands of the modern-day anti-ageing skin care user. PC


growth of the stratum corneum commenced, as compared to placebo. The distinct indications which were obtained in the in vitro studies were thus confirmed in this in vivo study. With this experiment the positive influence of Lactococcus ferment lysate on the skin’s renewal processes could be clearly demonstrated. (Method: Vivascope1500 – Lucid Inc., Rochester, NY, US)


Stratum cornuem thickness (µm)


Increase in expression (%)


Transepidermal water loss (g/hm2


)


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