Rose Durham Albert, Steve Hurff, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, US SKIN CARE


Sensory perceptions improve via biobased propanediol


New consumer moisturisation and sensory testing has shown that by using a blend of Zemea and glycerin in a lotion formulation it is possible to improve the consumer perceived aesthetics without compromising hydration performance. The objective of this study was to determine if Zemea® Propanediol could improve consumer sensory perceptions of a typical high moisturising lotion based on glycerin while maintaining satisfactory humectancy performance. The generic lotion containing 20 wt.% glycerin was compared to both a lotion with 20 wt.% Zemea, and a lotion using a blend of Zemea/glycerin (10 wt.% each). This study used Corneometer assessments of skin hydration and consumer sensory evaluations. The subjects of the study were 6 male and 23 female healthy volunteers between the ages of 19 and 66 who use moisturising lotion on a daily basis. The study was conducted by Princeton Consumer Research, Princeton, NJ, US on behalf of DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Company, LLC. Previous studies have been conducted


to evaluate the moisturisation efficacy and consumer sensory perceptions of various formulations containing Zemea propanediol (now referred to as ‘biobased propanediol’), glycerin and/or other diols: l In 2008, a study was conducted to measure the moisturising performance of O/W skin care emulsions with 5 wt. % varying humectant that included biobased propanediol, propylene glycol


INCI Name 40


l Zemea l Glycerin l Zemea/glycerin mix


35 30 25 20 15 0 5 10 Time (hours) Figure 1: Mean Corneometer measurements.


(PG), butylene glycol (BG) and a control (water). Each test cream was applied on the forearms of 10 subjects. A Corneometer 825 PC (Courage & Khazaka) was used to measure skin moisturisation over a 4-hour period. Biobased propanediol was found to be more efficient in moisturising the skin throughout the entire testing period.


l In 2009, a consumer sensory study was conducted to measure the sensory perceptions of O/W lotions formulated


Table 1: High moisturising biobased propanediol formulation. Trade Name


Eastman Gem1 Lipex Shealight2 Water


Arlacel LC3 Zemea4


Ultrapure Xanthan Gum NF5 Germaben II6


Ethylhexyl Palmitate


Shea Butter Ethyl Esters Aqua


Sorbitan stearate (and) Sorbityl laurate Propanediol Xanthan Gum


Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methyl Paraben (and) Propyl Paraben


Suppliers: 1 Eastman 2 AAK 3 Croda 4 DuPont Tate & Lyle 5 Ultra 6 Ashland


Wt.% 5.0


5.0


65.0 4.0


20.0 0.1 0.9


with 5 wt. % varying humectant that included biobased propanediol, glycerin, PG and BG. This was a blind test with four-day conditioning and three-day product use cycle. Twenty subjects completed a daily use questionnaire to report their level of agreement on a scale of 1 to 7 with 10 different statements regarding each lotion’s sensory and use characteristics. The biobased propanediol lotion was rated higher than glycerin on all 10 sensory attributes and was rated higher or equivalent to the PG and BG lotions.


In the current study, we evaluated the moisturisation values and consumer sensory perceptions of three high moisturising formulations that contained either: l Biobased propanediol (20 wt.%) l Glycerin (20 wt.%) l Biobased propanediol/glycerin mixture (10 wt.% each)


This was a blind, randomised test with a three-day washout phase for the Corneometer component of the study.


September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 73 15 20 25


Corneometer measurements


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