SKIN CARE
to an elevated presence of (pro)filaggrin, as seen in the difference in red colour compared with the control, the epidermal skin model which was not treated with Lactococcus ferment lysate. Histological pictures were made (magnification 400x, Fig. 2).
Caspase-14 Reduced expression of caspase-14 is associated with increased TEWL, indicating that caspase-14 is vital for the quality of the skin’s barrier function. In this context, caspase-14 has been described to be of vital importance in the maintenance of normal and healthy keratinocyte differentiation, cornification, the architecture of the stratum corneum, and even the formation of the cornified envelope, especially under skin barrier- challenging conditions. As described above, elderly skin shows a lack of ability to properly react to external challenges, making caspase-14 an extraordinarily important element of anti-ageing skin care.
Antibody IgG isotype antibody (Genetex, GTX85087). Retrieval of the antigen was done by trypsin pre-treatment (37°C; 20 min).
Results Treatment of the growing epidermal skin model with Lactococcus ferment lysate led to a clear activation in the production of caspase-14, as seen in the marked difference in red colour compared with the control, the epidermal skin model which was not treated with Lactococcus ferment lysate. Histological pictures were made (magnification 400x, Fig. 3).
Keratinocyte cohesion Reduced keratinocyte cohesion, i.e. ‘attachment’ is a well-described phenomenon in elderly skin. This phenomenon can be analysed with a technology named Electric Cell-substrate Impedance Sensing (ECIS). ECIS is an automated non-invasive method to monitor cell behaviour. The principle behind ECIS
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
0 1 2 3 4 Time (hours) Figure 5: Increase in keratinocyte cohesion with 0.1% ProRenew Complex CLR. 5 6 7 Cell cohesion
with Lactococcus ferment lysate showed a steep increase as compared to the impedance measured on the cells treated with control (Fig. 5). This indicates that Lactococcus ferment lysate was able to positively influence cell cohesion. Interestingly, the plateau in the difference in impedance with control, which was reached after approximately three hours, was stable over the following hours, demonstrating that, as compared to control, the positive influence of Lactococcus ferment lysate leads to a sustainable improvement in cell cohesion. This suggests that Lactococcus ferment lysate may have a significant impact on the quality of skin.
Figure 4: Increase in impedance while cell cohesion is established as measured with ECIS.
measurement in this study with Lactococcus ferment lysate is that in the process of reaching confluence (a well- established cellular network of keratinocytes, where they are anchored to each other, resembling the bottom left part of Fig. 4) the impedance, the electrical resistance of the keratinocyte-system, increases until it reaches a plateau. In the process of reaching confluence, the keratinocytes build a cellular network during which cell cohesion is increased.
Method Human keratinocytes were seeded in an electrode array chip for 24h, after which, at t=0, 0.1% Lactococcus ferment lysate and control were applied. The impedance was recorded as a function of time. Impedance measured after application of control was set at 0%.
Results
Lactococcus ferment lysate and control were applied before the keratinocytes had reached confluence. Within the first hour after applying the substances, the impedance measured on the cells treated
Antimicrobial defence Epidermis actively manages the composition of the resident microflora on top of the skin. In doing so it prevents exogenous pathogenic bacteria from colonising and invading the skin. Differentiating keratinocytes produce antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), which contribute to the skin’s antimicrobial defence. The production of AMPs is considered to be a constituent of healthy and effective keratinocyte differentiation and, as such, is co-regulated with all other events in this process, including the production of vital components of cornification as described above. Skin barrier disruption, a constant phenomenon as skin is permanently challenged by external factors, has been shown to lead to a rapid loss of AMPs from the stratum corneum. The failure of elderly skin to properly react to these external challenges means that it has difficulties in re-obtaining a healthy AMP pool and, therefore, maintaining a healthy microbiome on top of the skin. Additionally, it has been shown that skin ageing leads to a reduced production of AMPs, particularly cathelicidin. Conversely, it was reported that the support of barrier repair leads to an elevation of the production of AMPs.
Defensin-1 (BD-1) BD-1 is constitutively produced and released from differentiating keratinocytes and corneocytes, and shows strong antimicrobial effects against Gram-negative bacteria (e.g., Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) as well as yeast (e.g., Candida albicans). Interestingly, apart from its role as an antimicrobial, BD-1 has been shown to be an active component in the differentiation process in the epidermis. It is, for instance, described as playing a vital role in the formation of the tight junctions in the stratum granulosum. Other publications have described the role of BD- 1 in other aspects of the differentiation
September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 65
Increase in impedance (%)
Impedance
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