HAIR CARE
Hanane Chajra, Fabrice Lefevre – Induchem, Switzerland Parand Salmassinia – Induchem, US
Multifunctional actives for oily skin and scalp disorders
Though the conventional hair care market is a mature one, there are still many opportunities to innovate and radicalise this sector. As the needs of consumers are becoming more complex, the corresponding products evolve towards more sophisticated and solution-oriented concepts by default. Just in the first of half of 2014, 72% of global hair care launched had a ‘beauty enhancing’ claim. Between 2009 and 2014, there were almost 10,000 product launches that addressed oily skin and oily hair concerns. Shampoos continue to dominate the innovations in hair care in 2014 accounting for more than one third of total launches. Looking at new claims such as ‘brightening/ illuminating’ in the hair care products, we learn that not only the hair care market is following the trends of skin care innovations but also is looking towards more positive functional attributes rather than damage reversal and protection.1 Based on the data extracted through Mintel, hair care products need to become more segmented not just by hair type but also separated by scalp type with specific formulations for oily scalp and dry scalp. The US alone provided an estimated $5.05 billion dollar shampoo and conditioner market and is projected to grow steadily over the next four years and reach a value of $5.6 bn by 2017.1 However this growth will likely be driven by the development of new formats and skin care-inspired trends for hair care.1 Multifunctional claims that bring solutions to several ongoing and interrelated concerns are gaining traction in the US market and driving the growth. Interestingly, the emerging economies of India and Indonesia offer rapidly developing shampoo and conditioner segments versus the more mature markets such as Japan, France and Italy.1
However
scalp care is of extreme importance particularly in Asia where the number of scalp related issues is on the rise. In China, for example, 68% of the consumers suffer from dandruff, 67% have itchy scalp and 56% are afflicted with oily hair/scalp.2
fifth of the products were formulated for consumers with skin disorders. The men’s market is a relatively underserved one. Men often do not perceive the additional benefits of using different shampoo and conditioners. This is also due to the fact that most of the men’s products were solely focused on dandruff control. In recent years, men have shown a willingness to pay a premium for products that bring additional value;1 multifunctionality being considered a real benefit for these consumers.
In 2014, almost one- 34 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
The Mintel database reveals that almost 8,000 launches between 2009 and 2014 carried the claims of addressing ‘oily skin’. The same research for ‘oily scalp’ remedies revealed 150 launches in those years. Once the two claims of ‘oily hair’ and ‘oily skin’ are juxtaposed, the number of the launches dwindles down to two products. Meanwhile, over 1,800 products were launched to address ‘oily hair’ concerns. Most of these products are formulated with a wide range of botanicals varying from mostly lemon and citrus to nettle, rose and menthol. The claim of oily hair is often combined with anti-dandruff, pH- neutral and anti-inflammatory ingredients or salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione. There were also many other products that have added additional oils to help break the cycle of the skin’s need to over-
produce sebum. Others claim to have oil added or mineral and vitamin fortified to restore the normal conditions to both hair and scalp. Among these, there were a few dry shampoos that utilised zea mays starch or natural clay to simply soak up the oil. However, very few products launched during the past five years contain ingredients that address the root cause of the sebum over-production.
The physiological role of sebum for skin and scalp Sebum production has an important function in barrier protection and trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL). Human sebum produced by sebocytes is composed of triglycerides, saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, wax esters, sterol esters, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and squalene.3
ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.4,5
Epidermis keratinocytes produce Once the triglycerides are
hydrolysed, they then release glycerol, which is an important factor that supports skin elasticity, hydration of the stratum corneum and barrier repair. Sebum in hair lubricates both scalp and hair thus reducing its friction. It also brings dead skin cells in the follicle up to the surface. Sometimes due to hormonal changes, genetics, poor nutrition or environmental stress, sebaceous glands may overproduce
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