HAIR CARE
the keratin mimetic ingredient is significantly reduced by 21.5% compared to a basic conditioner (Fig. 5). This clearly demonstrates the excellent conditioning properties of this ingredient.
Conditioner study on relaxed Brazilian hair tresses Human hair differs vastly around the world and within Latin America there is a wide range of hair types, many of which are excessively curly and difficult to style. Chemical straightening is a common cosmetic treatment in Latin America to tame curly and unruly tresses, it works by breaking disulphide bonds, reshaping the hair into a straight style and then reforming the bonds. Although considered permanent, this method of straightening is generally repeated every 6 weeks to 3 months and the caustic ingredients in these relaxer systems are known to cause damage to the hair fibres, resulting in raised cuticles and thus making combing more difficult. A lye relaxer system (Table 4) was applied
to virgin Brazilian hair with mechanical straightening and left on the hair for 20 minutes. The relaxer cream was then rinsed off with water before the tress was washed with a neutralising shampoo (Table 5). The hair was then washed a further two times with the neutralising shampoo before allowing the hair to dry naturally. The relaxed tresses were then treated with either a basic control conditioner or a
INCI Name
n Control conditioner n Conditioner with Kerestore (1% active)
0
–10 –20 –30 –40 –50 –60 –70 –80 –90 –100
0 *
Statistically significant compared to basic
conditioner where p=<0.05
*
Figure 5: Average percentage change in total work required to comb bleached European tresses after treatment with either the control or the keratin mimetic ingredient.
basic conditioner containing the keratin mimetic ingredient (see Table 3 for the formulation). The change in total work required to comb the hair tress after treatment with the active ingredient is significantly reduced by 9% compared to a basic conditioner (Fig. 6).
Conclusion Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a keratin quat that mimics the proteins found in the hair’s natural
Table 4: Hair relaxer system used in the combing study on Brazilian hair. Product
Oil Phase Crodacol CS501 Crodacol CS90EP1 Tween 60 Solan E
Polychol15 Aqueous Phase
Deionised Water Supplier: 1: Croda
Propylene Glycol Sodium Hydroxide Aqua
4.00 2.40
To 100.00
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol Polysorbate 60 PEG75 Lanolin Laneth15
White Petroleum Jelly Petrolatum Paraffinum Liquidum % w/w
11.16 1.33 2.67 1.33 1.33
11.00 10.00
–10 –20 –30 –40 –50 –60 –70 –80 –90 –100
n Control conditioner n Conditioner with Kerestore (1% active)
*
Statistically significant compared to basic
conditioner where p=<0.05
Figure 6: Average percentage change in total work required to comb relaxed Brazilian tress after treatment with either the control or the keratin mimetic.
composition to move biomimetics to the next generation. Using the powerful technology of proteomics, we have proved that this active ingredient mimics the proteins found in the hair’s natural
composition.The cuticle has a major impact on the appearance and manageability of hair and is therefore the target of most hair care products. This keratin mimetic is a mixture of biofunctional peptides with a chemically bound quaternary ammonium group, which imparts a cationic charge. Quaternisation of this highly specialised
keratin protein enhances the substantivity to the cuticular surface of the hair. This ensures the active ingredient deposits at the most damaged sites of the cuticle where it is needed most. Images produced by the advanced ToFSIMS technique prove that this keratin mimetic provides intelligent repair by selectively targeting the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. The visual and sensorial health status of
Table 5: Neutralising shampoo used on relaxed Brazilian hair. Product
INCI Name
Crodateric CAB 301 Incromine Oxide1
Deionised Water Supplier: 1: Croda
Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate [30%] Aqua (and) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Aqua (and) Cocoamidopropylamine Oxide Citric Acid Aqua
% w/w 20.0
5.0 3.0 1.0
To 100
hair is directly related to the condition of the hair cuticle. Hair with damaged cuticles feels rough and creates a greater force required to pull a comb through the hair. In a sensory study by a trained panel the keratin mimetic was shown to improve wet tangle removal, wet combing and wet smoothness, with an effect that remains even after four washes. In addition using instrumental combing studies the excellent conditioning properties of this keratin mimetic ingredient have been demonstrated. Substantiated by the latest techniques
in protein sequencing, advanced imaging techniques and consumer relevant combing studies this product helps formulators meet the demands of today’s science savvy consumer who is also looking for real results.
PC 44 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
*
Change in total work (%)
Change in total work (%)
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