HAIR CARE
Gabriela Daniels, Kristin Katakami, Peter Grant-Ross, Slobodanka Tamburic – London College of Fashion, UK
Effects of co-surfactant and conditioning agent on colour
Present in the hair cortex is melanin, which gives hair its natural colour. Modern consumers often use colorants with variable degree of longevity in order to change or enhance their natural hair colour. The permanent hair dyes, also referred to as oxidative dyes, have two components which are mixed just before application. The alkalising agent, hydrogen peroxide, swells the hair, enabling the dye precursors and a catalysing agent to reach the cortex. These promptly undergo several steps of chain reactions, producing new chromophores which are too large to diffuse out of the hair fibre.1
Despite that, it is observed that hair treated with red hair dyes is particularly prone to fading after UV exposure and shampooing. Studies have quantified the precise degree of colour loss using spectrophotometric measurements based on the CIELAB (Commission Internationale de l’Eclairage’ or ‘International Commission on Illumination’ [eng.]) system. For example, Medice and Joekes2
found that
measured total hair colour loss of bleached and coloured hair as ∆E=2.97. Zhou et al4
recorded ∆E>4 for dyed hair
tresses soaked in surfactant solutions, also noting time and pH dependant curves. Thus colour fastness of the hair dyes is not
red coloured hair tresses lost colour to a larger extent than those dyed using black, brown and blond hair dyes, while Fernandez et al3
ABSTRACT
The colour-fading of hair treated with oxidative dyes is attributed to the effects of ultraviolet light and other environmental factors, but mostly it occurrs during shampooing. This effect is caused by the diffusion of chromaphores from within the cortex towards the cuticle surface. The colour fading of dyed hair during shampoo washing is determined by a range of factors, most significantly by the chemistry of the chromaphores, the porosity of the hair fibres, and the properties of the used surfactants.
Optimising the cleansing efficacy of shampoos in relation to colour protection claims is of interest to formulators. This study investigates the effects of two co-surfactants and a range of conditioning additives, polycationic and silicone-based, on the colour- fading of hair tresses treated with red oxidative hair dye and put through repeated wash-and-dry cycles. The results indicate that the choice of co-surfactant alone, and in combination with the conditioning additives, can significantly influence the colour fading of red oxidative dye treated hair during shampooing. The amphoteric co-surfactant offered statistically significant improved colour retention, compared to the nonionic. Furthermore, the silicone based conditioning additive delivered enhanced colour retention in comparison with the selected cationic polymers.
only a key performance characteristic of the dye formulation, but could be also of high importance when formulating targeted wash products.
Primary surfactants are most commonly anionic, due to the superior cleansing and foaming performance of these materials. Kiplinger et al5
studied the effects of
sulfates (SLS and SLES) on colour changes, concluding that their substitution by milder anionics, or the addition of amphoteric co- surfactants, can reduce the rate of colour fading during shampooing.
Table 1: Investigational materials: INCI names, abbreviations and properties. INCI name
Properties
Cocoamidopropyl Betain (CAPB) Coco-Glucoside (CG)
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (DLS) Sodium Trideceth Supfate, Sodium
(surfactant blend) Polyquaternium-28 (PQ-28)
Polyquaternium -55 (PQ-55) Dimethicone Sodium Laureth Supfate (SLES) 46 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
Amphoteric surfactant Non-ionic surfactant Anionic surfactant
Anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic Lauroamphoacetate, Coco Monoethanolamine surfactant blend Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and
methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (VP/MAPTAC)
VP/DMAPA/C12-MAPTAC copolymer
Silicone polymer Anionic surfactant
One common approach to reducing colour loss is the inclusion of polymers in post-colouring treatment products, with the aim of forming protective hydrophobic coating on the hair. Cationic polymers, also referred to as polyquaterniums, are known to confer properties such as slip, sheen and body, while their substantivity to hair is further enhanced by the presence of cationic sites along their backbone. Jaynes et al6
reported 11% to 44%
reduction of colour-fading of hair tresses subjected to wash-and-dry treatments
Additional information
pH dependant charge, mild Considered mild
Considered mild, possible substitute of SLES Commercially available blend claiming
optimised colour protection
Hair substantive polymer due its quaternised groups
Hydrophobically modified copolymer, claims for enhanced substantively and colour protection
350 cps
Used as primary surfactants due to good solubility and cleansing properties
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