Liki von Oppen-Bezalel – IBR, Israel SKIN PROTECTION
Shielding against pollution for pristine clear skin
A major unmet need of the cosmetic industry is the effective, natural and safe means to protect and detoxify the skin against environmental pollution to which it is exposed daily. Pollution in general and air pollution specifically have detrimental effects on skin health and appearance. Constant exposure to environmental toxins leads to accumulated damage in two main ways: DNA damage and chronic inflammation, which over time produces premature signs of ageing. The link between exposure to various
pollutants and skin damage is universally accepted. Cigarette smoke, as one example, which contains thousands of chemicals from which about 60 are recognised as carcinogenic. These directly cause premature ageing. The skin’s ability to defend itself against
pollution is limited. One may assist with external detoxifying/anti-pollution agents that also stimulate the skin self-defence mechanism to help the skin fighting the damage.
An aqueous extract of Asteriscus graveolens Asteriscus graveolens, Fragrant Star, is an aromatic perennial plant whose habitat ranges from Morocco and the Sahara to Iraq, through the biblical deserts of Israel: the Negev, Judean Desert and around the Dead Sea. Asteriscus grows in sandy clay beds, in particular the banks of seasonally
a
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
have also been used to produce smoke for therapeutic inhalation. Other plants in the genus are known
as being useful as antispasmodics, anti- inflammatories and antimicrobials (e.g. used to prevent or treat infection in wounds or skin lesions).7
The plant’s adaptation to
extremely challenging conditions most likely plays a strong role in determining its composition, which includes a variety of potentially beneficial compounds: Essential oils of Asteriscus graveolens are known to contain a wide variety of terpenes.8–10 The plant is also known to contain a variety of flavonoids, coumarins, and tannins.11,12 Essential oils and organic extracts of
washing wadis or arroyos. In the wild, Asteriscus starts growing after the first rains, and blooms in the spring. Asteriscus has a long history of use
in traditional medicine, especially in desert-dwelling cultures in the Sahara and Negev for treating fevers, for digestive tract complaints,1 as a hypoglycemic,2
head pains, bronchitis, as a general
anti-inflammatory medicine,3 antimicrobial,4,5
as an as a stimulant (‘against tiredness’)6
against rheumatic pains, and
against the common cold. Among the cultures which make use of it, the plant is widely consumed as a tea or infusion, and dry leaves thrown on live coals
b IC50
n IBRN2300-24 – 0.001% n Intoxicated control
10 39 Intoxicated medium (%) 48 100
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Asteriscus graveolens have been shown to have properties as antifungals and antioxidants, possibly due to the terpene content.13–15
shown to have some antibacterial properties.16
Aqueous extracts have been An essential oil of Asteriscus
leaves has also been shown to be an effective corrosion inhibitor on mild steel,17 likely due to the presence of hetero-organic compounds in the oil.
Cigarette smoke-induced cytotoxicity on normal human epidermal keratinocytes Overview Using cigarette smoke as a broad model for pollution that is also known to lead to premature skin ageing, we challenged keratinocytes survival with cigarette smoke
IC50
n IBRN2300-24 – 0.002% n Intoxicated control
10 39 Intoxicated medium (%) Figure 1: The effect of a) 0.001% and b) 0.002% (right) IBR-Pristinizer on the viability of cigarette smoke-intoxicated keratinocytes (NHEK). September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 55 56 100
Viability (%)
Viability (%)
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