HAIR CARE
hair fibre which dislodge species from the cuticle. Although most of the dislodged species are neutral, between 1% and 10% are charged these are known as secondary ions. The dislodged species are identified by a mass spectrometer then used to map areas of damage to the hair surface and regions where active ingredients have been deposited on treated samples. The secondary ions are focused by charged detector plates and analysed by a mass spectrometer, allowing an image to be created, with each pixel representing a peak in the mass spectrum. This high resolution, mass spectroscopy
method has been used to identify and map the deposition of the keratin mimetic ingredient along the hair fibre (Fig. 3), demonstrating that it deposits on the most damaged areas of the hair cuticle, intelligently repairing the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. In this particular study, European hair tresses were bleached and then treated with an aqueous solution of the keratin mimetic ingredient. The image map produced for the tresses treated with the active ingredient, Figure 3, shows the deposition of the active at the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. The hair becomes progressively more anionic from root to tip as the degree of damage increases. There is less deposition of keratin mimetic at the root of the hair fibre, where there is less damage and extensive coverage at the severely damaged tip. The images prove that this keratin mimetic ingredient provides intelligent repair by selectively targeting the areas of the hair surface with the most damage.
Hair evaluation after shampooing In order to assess the conditioning benefits delivered by the keratin mimetic from a shampoo formulation, a comprehensive build up and wash off hair sensory study was conducted. Four successive applications of a basic shampoo (Table 1) or a shampoo containing the keratin mimetic (Table 2) were performed in order to assess build up. This was followed by four consecutive washes in order to evaluate the lasting benefits of the keratin active.
INCI Name Aqua
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
*Statistically significant compared to control shampoo where p=<0.05 *
* * * * * *
* *
Wet tangle removal
Wet ease of combing
Wet smoothness n Treatment 1 (with Kerestore 2.0) n Treatment 4 (with Kerestore 2.0) n Wash n Control shampoo
Figure 4: Wet sensory properties of bleached European hair are greatly improved following treatment with a shampoo containing the keratin mimetic.
The performance was assessed by
Croda’s specialist in-house method of evaluating the sensorial impact of actives on the hair. Objective studies were carried out by a trained panel of experts profiling hair attributes against industry benchmarks. The panel follows a strict testing routine, which includes calibration sessions and statistical reproducibility. The sensory analysis of three wet attributes, was performed after each treatment, the results of which can be seen in the Figure 4. The sensory performance of the control shampoo, which is represented by the yellow line, does not change over time. This provides a baseline for comparison while also validating the results obtained by Croda’s trained panellists, demonstrating their reproducibility. The red bars represent the sensory performance of the active shampoo after one treatment, while the purple bars illustrate the sensory performance of the active shampoo after four treatments. Finally, the green bars show the sensory profile of the hair after four washes with the active shampoo followed by four washes with the control shampoo. When compared to a control shampoo,
the keratin mimetic can greatly improve the sensory properties of the hair while wet. These benefits are noticeable from the first application and continue to improve with
Table 3: Base conditioner formulation containing 1% active of the keratin mimetic. Product Water
Incroquat™ CTC301 Crodacol™ CS901
(Aqua (and) Cetrimonium Chloride Cetearyl Alcohol Preservative
Lactic Acid [To pH 55.5] Kerestore 2.01 Supplier: 1 Croda Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin 5.00 % w/w
To 100.00 3.20 5.00 qs
successive treatments. Furthermore, this improved sensory performance remains after four wash cycles, demonstrating that this keratin active can impart enhanced long-lasting sensory performance from shampoo formulations.
Hair evaluation after conditioning The look and feel of the hair is most obviously related to the hair cuticle. Everyday grooming methods such as combing and styling practices, as well as chemical treatments and UV exposure, cause damage to the hair cuticle. This leads to increased friction between strands, cuticle decementation and force required to pull a comb through the hair. Care for the cuticle requires good conditioning which improves the appearance of hair and makes combing easier. Measuring the force required to comb a hair tress pre- and post-treatment allows the conditioning effect of an active to be calculated.
Conditioner evaluation on European hair tresses One of the most damaging cosmetic hair treatments commonly used in Europe is bleaching. In order to measure the ability of this keratin mimetic to treat damaged European hair, tresses were bleached and treated with either a basic conditioner or a basic conditioner containing 1% active of the ingredient, as shown in Table 3. The basic conditioner used is exactly the same but without the keratin active. The tresses were tested using the Mini
Tensile Tester to assess their effectiveness at reducing combing forces. The change in force required to pull a comb through the hair tress before and after treatment provides an indication of the conditioning properties of the active. The change in total work required to comb the hair tress after treatment with
September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 43
Improved wet sensory properties
Quantitative sensory scale
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