Helene Hine, Neil James, Kathryn McNeil – Croda, UK HAIR CARE
Proteomics: next generation biomimetic hair care actives
Biomimetics is a cutting edge technology platform that involves the concept of taking inspiration from nature; its models, systems and processes and exploiting them to meet consumer demands. In personal care, the biomimetic approach refers to using proteins naturally found in skin and hair. Keratin proteins have commonly been used in hair care products as a biomimetic solution to replenish and restore the hair and recent innovations in biopolymer synthesis have taken biomimetic keratin one step further. Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Keratin is a keratin mimetic that replaces ‘like with like’ by mimicking the amino acid sequences found in the hair’s natural composition.
Product synthesis Maintaining hair architecture at the molecular level is important to achieve healthy hair structure. Ultimately, proper hair protein structure has an important impact on the cosmetic value of the hair shaft. About 95% of human hair’s constitution is based on proteins, the majority of which are keratin proteins. Keratins belong to a multigene family that comprises more than 30 members. They are grouped into type I acidic proteins and type II basic to neutral proteins which form the 10 nm intermediate filament network in epithelial cells. Depending on their function and expression site, keratins can be divided into either the large group of epithelial cytokeratins (i.e. soft α-keratins) expressed in the various types of epithelia or the hair keratins (i.e. hard α-keratins), which are involved in the formation of hard keratinised structures such as hairs, nails, hoofs, and claws. The human hair proteome has been investigated using two dimensional Liquid Chromatography and Tandem Mass Spectrometry (LCMS/MS). Several hundred proteins have been identified and fully sequenced, many of which are keratin proteins. These human hair keratin protein sequences are available on public databases such as UniProt (Universal
Rod Head IA IB 2 Tail L1 L2
Figure 1: Keratin proteins with a central rod domain dominated by α-helical subsegments (1A, 1B and 2) and separated by short linker regions (L1 and L2). The rod is flanked by non-helical head and tail domains at the amino and carboxyl termini, respectively.
Protein Resource). UniProt is a comprehensive, high quality and freely accessible database of protein sequence and functional information. The database is a central access point for extensive curated protein information, including function, classification, and crossreference and is available at
www.uniprot.org. Keratins are highly conserved proteins across species, meaning there is high sequence homology within the keratin protein family. The term keratin protein covers a class
of proteins which includes intermediate filament proteins (IFPs) and intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAPs) that are known to occur in nature in a variety of different cell types. The IFPs are so named because they have been found to be associated in intermediate filaments (IFs), a class of intracellular filamentous structures that are intermediate in size between microtubules and microfilaments. Keratin intermediate filaments consist of
Mass spectrometer
a globular head region, a highly conserved helical rod domain and a globular tail domain. The rod domain itself is composed of α-helical segments, named segment Coil 1A, 1B and Coil 2A and 2B, which are separated from each other by globular linkers. It is this complex matrix of helical protein bundles and amorphous protein junctions that are the basis for the special mechanical properties of the composite human hair. In the past, manufacturers have hydrolysed keratin protein sources using conventional methods to develop products that meet the ‘like with like’ trend. Croda has taken the next step forward to further build on this platform and to deliver advanced claims for the next generation of hair care products. Croda has targeted peptides in these α-helical rod domains, which are responsible for the structural integrity of hair, as the foundation for its new keratin mimetic. Building on Croda’s
Primary ions
Hair fibre Figure 2: ToFSIMS uses primary ions to create an image of the hair’s surface. September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 41
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