HAIR CARE


When applied on the oily scalp in a shampoo formula, this mix surprisingly delivered excellent results. A minus 40% reduction of the oily hair roots has been observed after 28 days of treatment (Table 2), with an extended benefit when the volunteers stopped using this specific shampoo to use again their traditional shampoo (Fig. 3). For both applications (oily skin or oily


scalp), the efficiency of the treatment was seen in quasi all subjects (20 and 13 respectively for the forehead panel and for the hair panel). Scalp sebum has dual properties (protection against itching and/or induction of itching) depending on its quality and quantity.18,19


Several authors have


demonstrated that chemical composition of skin surface lipids is severely altered in different skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis.20,21


significantly lower in people with sensitive scalp to hair dyes compared to non- sensitive group.19


Based on these data,


we can think that there is an absolute need to control the quality and quantity of the sebum excreted by using specific scalp care treatment to avoid the future development of scalp disease or discomfort. We have previously shown that


panthenol and panthenol triacetate induced a modulation of lipids metabolism and particularly in cholesterol metabolism.16 The cholesterol is involved in epidermis differentiation leading to a better barrier function. It was demonstrated that panthenol enhances skin barrier repair.22,23 The sebum quality is probably also modulated by farnesol and farnesol derivatives since these compounds are constituents of squalene24 cholesterol25,26


and biosynthesis in the skin. Modulation of squalene, cholesterol


and ceramides biosynthesis by panthenol derivatives and farnesol derivatives leads to the improvement of the weakness of the cell follicle membrane occurring in some skin pathologies (acne, dermatitis seborrheic). The rupture of a weak cell follicle membrane is responsible in part for the increased sebum excretion.


–15 –20 –25 –30 –35 –40 –45 –50 –55 –60


Duration of treatment (28 days)


n Shampoo placebo n Shampoo with active ingredients


14 28 Days Whereas, sebum content was


Figure 3: Percentage of reduction of oily hair roots after application of a shampoo containing the active ingredients (Based on clinical scoring analysis).


During this study we also tried to


measure the sebum quantity by sebumeter directly on the scalp and on the forehead skin at the hairline. The results obtained were aberrant with no correlation with the clinical scoring seen and the volunteer’s satisfaction (Fig. 4). It is well recognised that degradation of sebaceous secretions (by microorganisms) results in inflammation, irritation, itching and scalp flaking.27


In order to stop the


modification of sebaceous secretion by microflora, we developed a cosmetic composition containing farnesol and farnesol derivatives for their anti-microbiological properties for scalp care. Studies have shown that farnesol affects the resistance of bacteria such as those in Staphylococcus aureus biofilms28,29


and fungi (Candida dubliniensis strains).30 Farnesol inhibited also


the development of fluconazole resistance seen in Candida albicans.31 Additionally, this combination of active ingredients possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties needed for the limitation of irritation and scalp itching. The anti-inflammatory property is due to panthenyl triacetate,22,32 derivatives33


farnesol and its whereas the antioxidant


Table 2: Clinical scoring of oily aspect of the hair roots. Time


Clinical scoring of oily aspect of


the hair (mean±standard deviation) Shampoo with


Day 0


After 14 days After 28 days After 35 days


active ingredients 4±1


3.31±1.32 2.38±1.19 2.23±1.09


Shampoo placebo


4±0.96


3.21±0.97 2.71±0.79 2.57±1.09


–17.30 –40.40 –44.20


–19.60 –32.10 –35.70


Average variation (%) vs. T0 Shampoo with active ingredients


Shampoo placebo


properties are provided by farnesol.34 Tocopherol is an antioxidant found naturally in skin, and is provided through nutrition. Skin tocopherol is transported by sebum to the skin surface.35-37


and oxidative conditions the naturally inherent tocopherol is depleted.35


During inflammatory Once


depleted from tocopherol, the sebum remains unprotected becoming a target for oxidation, thus maintaining this deleterious vicious circle: lipids oxidation leading to lipids degradation, which creates a sensitive and irritated scalp. Due to farnesol content of the scalp care formulation, a topical sebum protection is also awarded.


Conclusion We have demonstrated that a selected mix containing farnesol, farnesyl acetate and panthenyl triacetate (used as a cream or a shampoo) is effective in treatment of oily scalp and oily skin with the same level of efficacy and persistency. The skin sebum content was decreased and the clinical investigations revealed long lasting effect after cessation of the treatment. The intrinsic and synergic multi properties (metabolic stimulators, antimicrobial agent, anti-inflammatory agents) of active ingredients contained in the scalp care treatment are of great interest to treat scalp disorders (irritated scalp, dandruff, seborhheic dermatitis). The number of product launches that


provides a solution to the duality of oily hair and skin reveals that with two products launched in the past five years and the narrow range of ingredients that lack targeting the biological pathways and root cause of the sebum over-production, there is a void for an effective remedy. Taking inspiration from skin care and designing


September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 37


Persisting action after stopping the treatment


35


Reduction of oily root hairs (%)


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