TEXTURES
slipperiness and smoothness are negatively impacted in the bio-based alternative. By developing a new cross-linking technology, the negatively impacted aspects of the organic carrier, especially poor tackiness and smoothness, were overcome (Figure 2). Even when used at high percentage, this new silicone technology can easily achieve greater than 90% naturality without compromising on aesthetics and performance. Thanks to its optimised cross-linking
technology and bio-based carrier selection, the new elastomer blend can provide similar sensory performance as traditional elastomer blends in dimethicone at lower use levels. Figure 3 shows the comparison in O/W formulations using either 6% SEB in C13-15 Alkane carrier or 10% traditional SEB in dimethicone. At a 40% lower use level, no difference before absorption and little difference after absorption was observed.
Superior thickening allows lower use level Rheology modification, resulting into a specific texture, is a key benefit of SEB that is well perceived and recognised by the consumer. Thanks to its optimised structure and higher content in elastomer, the new SEB in C13-15 Alkane provides better thickening power at similar blend use levels. The thickening and texturising properties
are primarily driven by the level of cross-linked elastomer in the final formulation. When working with traditional silicone carrier-based elastomer, the ability to use derived natural ingredients in the formulation may be limited. The higher elastomer content achieved in the blend allows a lower amount of the blend to be used in the formulation, while maintaining the same thickening performance.
Product appearance In addition to its compatibility with a broad range of cosmetic ingredients, the new SEB in C13-15 Alkane has a clearer appearance compared to traditional silicone elastomers in silicone carrier fluids. In traditional SEB, the platinum catalyst used for the cross-linking reaction can lead to a slight amber color in the final product, due to a reduction reaction. The new cross-linking chemistry forms a more efficient combination with the platinum catalyst, preventing the platinum reduction and its associated amber colour.
Optical properties Silicone Elastomer Blends also have the ability to provide a matte finish to skin and a soft focus/optical blurring effect, which helps to mask fine lines and gives skin a smooth and even finish. The blurring effect will depend on the amount of light scattered or reflected from the interface where the cosmetic formulation is applied onto the skin. The higher the blurring effect, the stronger the imperfection-masking ability. Two key parameters are used to determine the optical benefit of a raw material in a cosmetic formulation: ■ Total light transmission, translating in vivo into natural skin tone appearance.
www.personalcaremagazine.com BEFORE ABSORPTION Wetness
85
Absorbency
Spreadability
Tackiness
O/W with 10% SEB in Dimethicone carrier■ 6% New SEB in bio-based carrier■
Figure 3: Sensory comparison in O/W, 6% New SEB in bio-based carrier vs 10% traditional SEB in dimethicone (before absorption).
TABLE 1: NEW SEB IN BIO-BASED CARRIER COMPATIBILITY PROFILE. Ratio Optimized SEB: ingredient
Water Ethanol
Hydrocarbons Isododecane Isohexadecane Mineral Oil
Silicones Cyclopentasiloxane Dimethicone (5 cSt) Dimethicone (100 cSt) Caprylyl Methicone Phenyltrimethicone
Oils Sunflower oil Castor oil
Esters C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Renewable sourced carrier C13- 15 Alkane
Undecane (and) Tridecane
Sunscreen Ethyl Hexyl Salicylate Liquid
pourable viscous liquid Gel C= Compatible & clear SC= Slightly compatible H= Compatible and hazy NC= Not compatible
■ Diffused light, translating in vivo into maximum optical skin imperfections masking To have an optimal optical benefit,
the cosmetic raw material evaluated in a standard formulation chassis needs to exhibit a maximum total light transmission (TT > 93%) together with a targeted diffused light transmission (haze value) ~ or > 70. SEB in C13-15 Alkane demonstrated the same soft focus benefit as measured by the Haze Value compared to the incumbent silicone elastomer blend delivered from a silicone carrier.
Conclusion DOWSILTM
Ratio 1:9 NC NC
C H
NC
C C C C H
NC NC
NC NC
C C
NC
Ratio 5:5 NC NC
C C
NC
C C C C C
NC NC
NC NC
C C
NC
Ratio 9:1 NC C
C C C
C C C C C
H NC
C C
C C
C
EL-TIPS Silicone Elastomer Blend
features a new cross-linking technology and a high level of inherently biodegradable C13-15 Alkane sourced from a renewable sugarcane carrier. With enhanced compatibility with natural ingredients, sensory performance that is close to that of 100% silicone elastomer blends, formulation texturising and optical properties potential, this unique combination opens new doors to cosmetic products with both superior feel and a high content of natural and derived natural ingredients (>90%).
PC September 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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