MEN’S GROOMING
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pH
This principal factor plays an important role both in medical science and in cosmetic chemistry, since it defines the following function in the skin:4,6 First and foremost, pH regulates the
performance and expression of enzymes. Every enzyme works in a very narrow pH range. Thus with pH changing, some of the enzymes begin their activity while others discontinue their regulating performance in keratinocytes and in the intercellular lipid matrix. pH is also a factor for maintaining the
skin’s normal protective microbiome, which sometimes is called the Stratum Microbium among dermatologists due to its viable importance for skin protective functions and for the skin as the biggest immune organ. When the normal microbiota of the skin is affected, it yields its place to pathogens, which can literally attack the unprotected natural skin barrier, which in turn leads to water loss with all the consequences. The extreme pH values at the polar ends
of the pH scale mean that in this case we deal with either alkaline or acidic keratolytics that can affect the structures of keratin and any other proteins. However, those extreme values are widely used in Aesthetic Dermatology to regenerate, rejuvenate or beautify the skin structures via strictly controlled inflammation which is a direct consequence of chemical peelings.
The normal acidic pH of the skin slowly
increases with age or when the pathological events as inflammation, barrier disruption or an infectious disease takes place. These facts dictate the special attention paid to the acidic/ alkaline balance of the products designed for men, while a traditional approach in male skin care pays no or little attention to this aspect.
Skin elasticity, density, thickness There is a plethora of discrepancies found in many studies regarding the differences in skin density, elasticity, and ability to form wrinkles in men and women. However, the fact is that the thickness of the dermal structures and density of collagen prevail in the skin of men. The alterations in elastic and collagen fibres in the dermis that come with ageing lead to less tensile strength of the skin. Those inevitable
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biological processes are accompanied by the wrinkle formation.2,3
However, the way
it happens in male skin differs from the skin of women. Only by the age of 60 does the prominence of deep wrinkles and furrows become equal in both genders or even less visible and smoother in women.
Culture of male grooming Human society has assigned remarkably simple ways of skin care for men – shaving, haircuts and perfumed alcohol aftershaves and splashes. The culture underlined the masculinity via indifference to comfort or thorough skin care among men. This tendency is still in fashion in some groups of traditionalists who prefer alkaline soaps or alcohol splashes to be used right after such a serious and simultaneously frequent procedure as shaving. However, this old approach to male grooming greatly ignores the contemporary scientific facts in skin biology and physiology. This reality turns the pleasant routine into a not so innocent ritual when it comes to the obvious and continuous skin barrier disruption and consequences such as sensitivity, irritation, redness or even skin infections. At the same time, modern formulations and
technologies allow men to maintain not only well-conditioned skin, but also keep the skin healthy and prolong the youthfulness of the skin to the maximum.
Shaving Traditionally, shaving is a keystone of male grooming. This cosmetic procedure has its evident advantage –aesthetic appearance. Nevertheless, this advantage has a high price, because shaving, from a dermatological standpoint is a serious peeling. As any severe peeling, shaving affects the structures of the stratum corneum and skin barriers which may lead to both positive and negative effects. Quality peeling moderately destroys the upper layers of the epidermis and generates the signals of “alarm” via signalling molecules. Those signals pass through all layers of the epidermis and dermis and lead to the activated regeneration of the affected area. It involves all the elements of the skin anatomy – keratinocytes, blood vessels, local immune cells, fibroblasts, etc. Again, the body, i.e., skin
is fighting the attack caused by the destruction of the upper layer of the epidermis, while we call it rejuvenation or regeneration. The normal rate of complete skin recovery is a period of approximately 30 days. In other words, when we attack the skin frequently, it has no time to regenerate itself and literally, the affected area turns into a never-ending battlefield. All the above-mentioned aspects - TEWL, pH, skin hydration -get affected. Do not forget the altered microbiome as the final touch to the picture. Though, the resources of the skin are exhaustible. Sooner or later, the permanent continuous inflammation begins to show the visible signs in a form of dryness, redness, abnormal exfoliations, etc. In severe cases, elements of skin diseases occur.3,5 The traditional shaving solutions offer
us only brute forms. They only play on the side of aggressive procedure. Some modern formulations in the form of traditional products such as “natural” shaving soaps and creams have a highly alkaline pH. Along with mechanical peeling, they make the skin injury even worse, they completely remove the hydro-lipid mantle, aggressively disrupt lipids, and alter the normal pH. Add the aftershave in a form of an alcohol splash with essential oils or fragrances and we will have a completely damaged area of skin. How can contemporary cosmetic science
help to overcome the unwanted events during and after shaving? Cosmetic chemists have a wide range of gentle and still effective working solutions in their arsenals, from good old friends such as AHA and their salts to the high- end ingredients such as fullerenes. The basic task is offering high quality and safe shaving products along with additional preshave and aftershave helpers that are supposed to lessen or eliminate the skin damage and its consequences.
Shaving preparations The long list of modern surfactants with a perfect performance and “mild” profile can be utilised to create any form of shaving product. The major aims include creating an acid or neutral pH and a nice glide that helps to improve the quality of the shaving routine and protect skin from excessive damage. New forms such as non-foaming gels and
September 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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