76 SKIN MICROBIOME
immediately analyses the number of fluorescing areas as well as the intensity of the fluorescence. ■ Quantitative methods at molecular level: PCRs, rRNA, S16 rDNA + ITS sequencing: Mass Spectrometry: High-resolution Nano LC-MS/MS. ■ Quantitative PCRs and follow-up of major species or genus. It gives answers such as: “The product has/does not have an effect on tested genus”. ■ Metagenomics comparative study of microbiome by NGSequencing 16S rDNA or ITS. It gives answers in a report such as: “The product/treatment does or does not impact the semi-quantitative composition and microbiome diversity”. ■ Metaproteomic comparative study by relative quantification LC-MS/MS “shotgun proteomics” and bioinformatics/biostatistics. The assays enable the taxonomic analysis
of the bacteria, identifying what the bacteria are that can be found. Then the genome of the bacteria to better know their action. Now a major part of the skin bacteria is known. It gives answers relative to the effects of the cosmetics on functions and interactions of the host and microbiome simultaneously.
Combining expert’s views on clinical evaluation perspectives In January 2018, Marie-Alice Dibon, Innovation, and science consultant, shared with Skinobs in ZOOM#6, her view of the skin microbiota perspectives for skin care. A lot has happened since she first wrote about the Microbiome, back in 2012. Small brands have rushed in, large ones, not so much, but there is definitely a lot of activity on the dermo brands front, and the premium consumer side is slowly starting. So why are premium brands so timid in using the Microbiome argument? She thought we are by now past the “Yuk” factor. And the idea that brands do not speak nearly as much about the Microbiome as they research it, speaks volumes onhow little they feel they really know. The Microbiome was young. It is a discipline that is still in its infancy. Especially in skin care. Sampling is complicated, following up is a nightmare. Lifestyle impacts the Microbiome as much as genetics does. The liminal nature of the “organ” complicates matters a great deal. So, she saw a lot of claims, many of them implying things that we just cannot be sure of. Yet, what we need, before we speak with the consumer (about products in the meantime talks to the
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
consumer, educates her, it is part of your mission as life science professionals), are industry-wide guidelines and consensus. If understanding what is happening on the skin with the Microbiome remains complex despite the presence of excellent testing labs in the space, one thing would help a great deal: understanding the impact of our products before they are formulated. Let us make it routine to test the raw materials for their microbiome impact before the regulator makes us. Phylogene explores the skin microbiota
and shared their vision of its assessment. Skin is a rather hostile environment, salty, dry and poor in nutrients. Certain parts remain however moist and lipid rich propitious to bacteria blooming. As the skin matures with age, notably during puberty where hormones are kicking-in and triggering a cascade of physiological and physical transformations, the skin microbiome is constantly evolving until adulthood. On average, a person has around 1,000 species of bacteria on their skin offering a variety of distinct ecosystems, which create conditions that favour different subsets of organisms. Ear folds and forehead can be classified
as oily skin, and are niche for bacteria that consume lipids such as Staphylococcus spp and Cutibacterium acnes. Armpits and groin can be classified as
moist skin, a real magnet to bacteria such as Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus that contribute to the body odour. Even though forearms and palms are
considered as dry skin, they are habitat for the most diverse microbiome, rich in Betaproteobacteria and Flavobacteriales. Finally, feet can be considered an entire
ecosystem since they are harbouring a large amount of bacteria and fungi. Researchers have uncovered extensive
communication between bacteria, skin cells and immune cells. These interactions have been described in plethora of physiological functions as in skin barrier reparation, limitation of trans-epithelial water loss and defences against infections. Deciphering the role of skin bacteria functions is a tremendous work and this domain remains however poorly understood. Species such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus might have several strains with distinct physiological activities. Functional analysis and deciphering mechanisms of actions of bacteria / microbes
are a prerequisite to better understand their role and activities. Skin is an accessible and untapped reservoir to dissect and improve our comprehension of host- microbiome interactions. The analytical tools developed by Phylogene, combining PCR of the major skin genera up to bacterial 16s rDNA and fungal ITS sequencing is designed to better understand taxon dynamics on skin. Furthermore, an extensive analysis of the skin and its microbiome via Holxplore protocols using mass spectrometry proteomics and dedicated bioinformatics pipelines are keys to both decipher functional correlations and mechanisms of actions between skin and its microbiome. For optimal beauty results, every cosmetic
product should follow the approach of fostering the natural homeostasis of skin and hair instead of imposing additional stress with aggressive chemicals. This is achieved best by exclusively high-quality ingredients that enhance the microbes dwelling on the skin. The skin’s microbiome differs significantly between the various body parts. To make sure a product does not harm the microbiome, MYMICROBIOME has developed seven different standards: face and body; scalp; infant skin; private parts; foot; nasal and oral microbiome. The seal is awarded after successful completion of strict test runs. Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care
evaluates the impact of cosmetics on cutaneous microbiota by various factors which can alter human skin microbiome, a state referred to as dysbiosis. The cosmetics should respect and maintain the microbiota. Thanks to DNA sequencing techniques it is possible to analyse the skin bacterial community. The study skin area is swabbed with sterile swabs. The genomic DNA from the swab heads is extracted using Ion 16S Metagenomics Kit (ThermoFisher Scientific). The kit uses two primer pools to amplify seven hypervariable regions (V2, V3, V4, V6, V7, V8, and V9) of bacterial 16S rRNA. With this innovative test is possible to study the changes in the skin microbiome after testing cosmetic products. Complife Group recognises that in the
last years, the skin microbiota is increasingly popular in the cosmetic industry. But not only the cosmetic industry is interested in skin microbiota. Thanks to the gateway role played of intestinal microbiota related products, also consumers are becoming increasingly interested in products maintaining/preserving the skin microbiota equilibrium. Nowadays, DNA
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