MEN’S GROOMING


formulations should also be considered given the rising importance of skin health among men. ■ Refreshing Emulsion (ref. C-198) (Formulation 4) The composition of this emulsion includes a relatively low amount of alcohol to give a refreshing touch and minimise the use of preservatives. The fatty phase is composed of basic oils that act as re-fatting agents and normalise the damaged barrier function of the skin. Glycereth-2 Cocoate, as the main


surfactant, gives a pleasant feeling to the skin and helps spread the oils without leaving the typical tacky feeling of other greasy products. The next step in the evolution of aftershave


products is the complete removal of the alcohol content, to prevent potential skin dryness and reduce the stinging associated with their use. ■ High water content w/o emulsion (ref. C-323) This w/o emulsion protects skin from dryness. Thanks to the use of the emulsifier Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether (Penetol GE-IS), a high-water content w/o emulsion can be prepared which is easy to spread and does not leave a greasy, sticky feeling. Due to the active ingredient Cholesteryl Isostearate (Exceparl IS-CE-A), a skin biomimetic lipid, skin water-retaining ability is improved.


Skin care Market studies indicate that skin care is the most dynamic subsector in men’s grooming. Along with the introduction of mass market products targeting the average man eager to improve his image without spending too much, products for specific parts of the body and


FORMULATION 4: REFRESHING EMULSION Ingredients (INCI)


LEVENOL H&B Glycereth-2 Cocoate


KAOPAN SP-O-10 Sorbitan Oleate


COCONAD RK Tricaprylin


Jojoba Oil


Isopropyl Myristate Mineral oil


XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 cSt Dimethicone


Ethanol Glycerine


Tocopheryl Acetate Carbomer


KAO Fragrance


Preservative, pH adjust, etc Deionized Water


% w/w 5.0


1.5


2.0 2.0


2.0 1.0


1.0


15.0 2.0 0.5 0.3 q.s. q.s.


Up to 100


FORMULATION 6: SOLID BODY MOISTURIZER Ingredients (INCI)


DANOX HC-30 Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Lactic Acid


EXCEPARL LM-LC Lauryl Lactate


COCONAD RK Tricaprylin


LEVENOL H&B Glycereth-2 Cocoate


KAO SOFCARE GP-1 PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether


KALCOL 6850 Cetearyl Alcohol


EXCEPARL IS-CE-A Cholesteryl Isostearate


KAO Fragrance Shea Butter Coconut Oil


www.personalcaremagazine.com % w/w 60.0


7.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 2.0 2.0


q.s.


10.0 5.0


with special properties are on the rise thanks to their good acceptance. ■ Moisturizing Gentle Facial Wash (ref. C-303) (Formulation 5) Although men’s habits are changing, most men do not want to spend much time in the bathroom. So, practical and multipurpose products are highly valued by them and this Facial Cleanser is one such product (reference C-303). By combining Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate and Lauryl Hydroxysultaine (Betadet S-20), an extraordinary mild cleanser is obtained, with easily thickening by using PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate (Kaopan TW-IS-399S). Glycine Betaine provides a moisturising effect and Glycerine improves skin water content. The product is clear and stable thanks to the use of Lauryl Hydroxysultaine. ■ Body Cream – Light creamy feeling (ref. C-326) Following the easy-to-apply idea, the production of this Light Body Cream is very simple. The combination of two emulsifiers, an anionic, Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate (Akypo Soft 100 BVC) with a non-ionic, Sorbitan Oleate (Kaopan SP-010) forms an emulsion which is easy to spread and absorb, providing a light feeling. Lauryl Lactate (Exceparl LM- LC), a liquid emollient derived from renewable sources, with high/medium spreadability and low oiliness improves the light feeling of the formulation. New realities demand new solutions. Water


is a precious natural resource, and we must make efforts to save it. Following the trend of taking care not only of people but also of the environment, our sustainable proposal is a Solid Body Moisturizer. ■ Solid Body Moisturizer (ref. C-334) (Formulation 6) This body moisturiser in bar form which includes a selection of emollients (Lauryl Lactate, Tricaprylin, PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether, Glycereth-2 Cocoate) and a biomimetic skin lipid (Cholesteryl Oleate) shows fast absorption and provides high moisturisation to the skin. It contains a high level of natural ingredients (91% according to ISO 16128) and packaging has been reduced due to the solid form


FORMULATION 5: MOISTURIZING GENTLE FACIAL WASH


Ingredients (INCI)


BETADET S-20 Lauryl Hydroxysultaine


AKYPO FOAM LM 25 Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate


KAOPAN TW-IS-399S PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate


Glycerine


GENENCARE® OSMS BA Glycine Betaine


KAO Fragrance


Preservative, pH adjust, etc Deionized Water


% w/w 21.1


14.3 0.5


5.0 1.0


q.s. q.s.


Up to 100


Conclusion New trends in personal care products and, of course, also in men’s grooming represent a big challenge both for formulators but also for ingredient suppliers. Kao Chemicals Europe has a wide selection of surfactants, specialities and perfumes that could help develop more sustainable formulations taking care of people but also of the environment; we have only one planet and we must look after it.


References 1. Euromonitor, Men’s Grooming in Eastern Europe, February 2021


2. Euromonitor, Men’s Grooming in World, June 2021 3. §McDougal A., Men’s BPC: How to make, market and engage. Mintel, 7 September 2020, Industry Trend.


4. Guinaugh O., Break the gender barrier around bathing. Mintel, 21 April 2021, Insight.


5. Subirats N, Castán P, Stapels M, AKYPO®, multifunctional and outstanding performance for personal care applications. SÖFW journal, 10, 58-68, (2009)


6. Marimon N, Foam characterization from basic properties to new sensory feelings-IFSCC proceedings (2018)


7. Lacueva S., Marimon N., Los ácidos alquil éter carboxílicos y sus sales, una opción ultra- suave para formulaciones Cosméticas, NCP, 367, 8-16 (2019)


8. Castán P, Hydroxysulfobetaines: The newest old co-surfactants, SÖFW Russian version, 1, 38-43 (2001)


9. LEVENOL: A range of mild non-ionic surfactants for new developments in personal care, Cosmetic and Toiletries Manufacturer Worldwide, 125-133, (2002)


10. Skin properties of glycerine polyoxyethylene esters, CED proceedings 2003


11. Subirats N, Texture analysis of cosmetic thickeners for aqueous surfactant systems, Specialty Chemicals Magazine, 52-54 (2019)


12. Subirats N, Exclusive J-Beauty Ingredients for the European Skin Care Market, SÖFW, 146, 16-19 (2020)


13. Di Gesu R., A year of innovation in men’s grooming, 2020, Mintel, 10 August 2020.


14. Brooks G.J., Burmelster F., Preshave and aftershave products, Cosm & Toil, 105, 67-69 (1990)


15. Hamza M, Maibach H.I., Percutaneous Absorption in the Skin, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 130, 20-23 (2015)


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