SKIN MICROBIOME
sequencing techniques allow us to easily identify the bacterial strains living on the skin and an increasing number of scientific studies have shown that the skin microbiota is part of the physiological mechanisms of the skin playing an essential role in protecting the skin from the external environment. Complife Group said that this advance in techniques and science, offers the cosmetic industry new insight in the efficacy testing field. The skin microbiota is, in fact, an opportunity to differentiate product and to introduce innovation in products development. Intertek studies the cutaneous microbiota, using 16SRNA or qPCR. Thanks to its experts, Intertek offers a global solution to guarantee the best approach according to your objectives. To describe skin bacteria, 16SRNA and qPCR are two different molecular approaches using close technologies. qPCR is quantitative and selective for a unique
predefined bacterial target. You see only what you search and already known. 16SRNA gives, in a single slot, a global bacterial
picture using Mocks, standards preparation of bacteria from quantified bacteria mix. It reveals the whole biodiversity without any prejudice. If you want to reveal one specific bacteria,
use qPCR approach. To obtain a broader approach and therefore closer to the reality of the skin, 16SRNA is today the best tool. Zurko Research carries out microbiome
in vitro studies to analyse microorganism under the face mask. The fact that the skin microbiome or microbiota is now also correlated to many diseases has led to an increase in the amount of research being done in this field. Although beneficial relationships predominate in the skin ecosystem, when a change in a one’s routine occurs, a microorganism can be transformed into a pathogen, resulting in a disease such as acne, atopic dermatitis, or rosacea. The team at Zurko Research has come up with the most innovative proposals in the cosmetic industry and has carried out a test to evaluate how the skin flora behaves in the area under the mask. Also, cosmetics claims that are attributed
to microbiome skin or scalp care can be easily assessed by using classical biometrological methods objectivating pH balance, hydration, barrier function, trans epidermal water loss, blemishes, irritation, inflammation, sebum and lipids, skin turn-over and desquamation, sensitivity, or dandruff. The Skinobs Clinical Testing platform allows you, for free, to easily find all methods selecting a specific claim.
In vitro expert’s view of the proof-of-concept For Straticell, one of the strongest trends in skin care is undoubtfully the microbiota! The CRO has now integrated microbiota components to home-made reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) to address the impact of cosmetic actives on the growth of skin bacteria using different support and study protocols such as: culture of the most relevant species on top of RHE, including Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis among others; growth collection and quantification of bacteria on top of RHE; RHE response to bacterial colonisation: morphology,
www.personalcaremagazine.com Vitroscreen.
immunolabeling and gene expression studies; Pre, pro or post-biotic objectivations; Microbiota-friendly product objectivations. Vitroscreen focuses on the individual unicity of skin microbiome and how the scientific community needs to move from a research based on microbiome description to a deeper investigation to understand the complexity and unicity of this very specialised microenvironment. The Italian CRO develops 3D Human Skin Models to Investigate Skin Innate and Immune-mediated. 3D reconstructed skin models colonised with bacteria represent today a powerful and robust tool to explore microbiome interactions with living tissue/organs and to perform pre-clinical investigations for dermatology and cosmetic research. VitroScreen has recently contributed to the book entitled ‘Skin Microbiome Handbook: From Basic Research to Product Development’ edited by Dr. Nava Dayan and published in August 2020 addressing skin innate and immune-mediated responses to microorganisms on 3D reconstructed human skin models. Since the microbiota has a role both in health and pathologic conditions, the challenge today is to identify and to clarify the mechanisms and the underlaying interactions between skin cells and microbiome which may result in imbalance of healthy microbiota or skin homeostasis preservation/enhancement. To address this issue Vitroscreen has created and validated pre-clinical models based on 3D reconstructed human skin models colonised with biological relevant bacterial strains. The colonised skin models mimic the real site where the skin-microbiome interactions may occur, allowing the assessment of: microbiota’s influence at realistic exposure conditions and clinically relevant doses; host response by molecular, biochemical, morphological analysis bacterial response through the assessment of adhesion, invasion, phenotype, secretome, morphology at ultrastructural level and genomic response according to host diversity (healthy skin, fragile, inflamed, aged, stressed, ethnic) and environment. Within Vitroscreen’s Microbiome Research Unit, the antagonistic behaviour of S. epidermidis and S. aureus on a Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE) model has
been investigated. GRAM staining on S. aureus and S. epidermidis reveals a different behaviour of the 2 strains: while S. epidermidis is evenly distributed on SC surface, S. aureus forms many bacterial clusters that appear to be ready to establish a “self-protecting” biofilm structure. The skin microbiome is a main actor in inflammatory acne. Wearing a mask as a protection against COVID-19 infection leads to increased cutaneous inflammation and exacerbation or appearance of acne and rosacea. To help understanding these pathological mechanisms, Phenocell has developed a unique assay based on activation of inflammation by Cutibacterium acnes in human sebocytes derived from iPSC. The pro-inflammatory response is followed at gene and protein levels and can be completed with analysis of sebum production. The iPSC technology allows modulation of sebocytes phototype to better approach ethnic (African, Caucasian, Asian) variations to skin inflammation.
The future of skin microbiota evaluation In conclusion, there is no ideal composition of the skin microbiota as people are living in different ecosystems and have various lifestyles. Scientists agree that among the huge inter- and intra- individual variation, a wide variety of microbiota species assure a good health. This bacteria ecosystem synthetises a myriad of elements which have an important metabolic activity for our skin health. It could be necessary to protect, to rebalance and activate it on the cosmetics side. Simply said, the aim for personal care could be to reduce the “bad” bacteria and protect the “good” ones! But the notion of “bad” or “good” is relative depending on the physiological state of the skin. Now things are not so simple! The microbiota will play a key role in the
cosmetics of tomorrow. We move towards personalised and preventive cosmetics. Claim substantiation will evolve with the regulation and the products development. We must keep in mind the diversity and the balance of the skin flora in the future developments of actives and personal cares. Maybe one day we should measure their impact of on the microbiota before launching products on the market.
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PC September 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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