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MEN’S GROOMING


Clinical testing for a booming men’s sector


Dr. Nalini Kaul PhD- Princeton Consumer Research


The male grooming industry is growing at a rapid pace. Entire aisles of drug stores are dedicated to men’s grooming products. Product demand in the skin care, hair care, and fragrance industries has grown dramatically and is expected to keep pace in the coming years. Whether this growth stems from celebrity advertising or social media influence, one thing is clear: men have come a long way from the days of merely using a soap bar as face and body wash. The modern man stands ready and willing to invest in skin and hair products that maintain their health and youth. Globe News Wire reports the men’s


grooming market worldwide will reach $183.2 Billion by 2027, with the U.S. market alone estimated at $38 Billion, and China Forecast to grow at 6.9%.1


As men continue to open


their wallets for new and improved grooming products, brands catering to this market are stepping up to meet those needs by expanding offerings to include anti-ageing, SPF and anti- acne products. Customisation of products is proving equally important, such as specialised regimens for every combination of skin and hair. At Princeton Consumer Research (PCR),


we offer premier clinical research testing facilities with expertise in clinical testing for men’s grooming products. Specifically, we offer clinical testing for the following classes of products: ■ Personal Cleansing Products: soaps, shower gels, body washes


■ Sweat & Odour Control Products: anti-perspirants and deodorants ■ Shaving Products: shaving creams, before and after shave lotions, shave gels and balms ■ Skin Care Products: cleansers, moisturisers, anti-ageing products ■ Hair & Beard Care Products: shampoos, conditioners, styling products (pomades, putties, clays, waxes, gels) Companies are legally required to promote


products based on proven claims rather than lofty descriptions. Companies also need their products to meet the demands of savvy customers. Today’s customers can no longer be lured by visually appealing marketing campaigns alone. They require scientifically substantiated claims backing their products of choice. All the while, the introduction of novel ingredients into grooming products is pushing the boundaries of the scientific claims themselves. After manufacturers test for package


compatibility and product integrity, new products land at Princeton Consumer Research for clinical testing. Clinical testing at PCR begins with client consultation to create a customised study design. Our knowledgeable experts and trained study staff, often under the supervision of dermatologists, then execute the clinical trial, collect data, and statistically analyse trial outcomes. At PCR, we offer both safety and efficacy


testing. Safety testing of these products involves a determination of potential skin and eye irritation or allergic reaction. Common methods of evaluation include Human Repeat Insult Patch testing (“HRIPT”), cumulative irritation testing, and photo-reactivity testing. The correct study design for any given product will depend on client needs and the product being tested. Efficacy testing focuses on ensuring


Figure 2: Efficacy testing of a deodorant product in the laboratory. The odour judge is sniffing the subject’s armpit.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


product claims are clinically proven and supported by strong results. Adverse events occurring during efficacy trials are collected to further substantiate product safety. Efficacy testing may be used to authenticate cleansers, shaving products, moisturisers, anti-ageing products, antiperspirants, deodorants as well as products for hair and scalp. We also offer total hair and skin regimen test for multiple products. Below, we offer a description of sample study designs that may be used for efficacy testing of these products.


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Figure 1: Efficacy testing of an antiperspirant spray product in the laboratory. The product is being sprayed on to subject’s armpit area by trained staff.


Personal cleansing products The forearm-controlled application technique (“FCAT”) or leg-controlled application test (“LCAT”) are used to estimate the relative irritation potential of personal cleansers. The FCAT and LCAT study designs use an exposure protocol based on consumer washing habits, offering an efficient means to evaluate cleanser mildness. The testing industry has relied on short-duration, exaggerated protocols that reach outcomes beyond those observed under normal use conditions to predict the relative irritation potential of personal cleansing products. At PCR, we understand the challenge is to choose appropriate test conditions that provide a reasonable level of product discrimination without sacrificing consumer relevance. By testing multiple products on each subject, the LCAT and FCAT helps minimise confounding effects. For example, an exaggerated leg, arm or hand wash can be used to verify claims such as “gentle”, “mild”, and “non-drying”. On the other hand, a kinetic study design provides results detailing the effectiveness of a product over a short period of time: 1, 8 or 24 hours. These studies help to verify claims such as “moisturising formula” and “provides up to [X] hours of moisturisation”. In all of these study designs, the cleansing product is applied to the skin. The product


September 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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