52 HAIR CARE
formulating hair care products. The cationic inverse emulsion polymers are beneficial in providing film-forming, conditioning, and colour-enhancing properties. SNF has developed a wide range of cationic
inverse emulsions that are water-soluble polymers. The FlocareTM
Polyquaternium 37
(Poly (2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride)) range contains cationic inverse emulsions in the liquid and powder form. (Table 1) Flocare ET 1237 PP1 and Flocare ET 1737
GPG are traditional cationic inverse emulsions polymers. Flocare PSD 1037 LV and Flocare PSD 1037 XT are cationic inverse emulsions polymers that have been spray dried. The cationic polymers are spray dried using a unique technology developed by SNF resulting in multifunctional, highly concentrated and white free-flowing powders. Flocare PSD 1037 XT allows also to make transparent formulations and provides secondary benefits like softness.
Polyquaternium 37 Cationic Inverse Emulsion Polymer Benefits In addition to the cationic polymer multifunctional properties (i.e., thickening, emulsifying, and texturising), they also enhance colour retention and create synergies with conditioning polymers. The polymer can emulsify formulas with synthetic and natural oils (argan, shea butter liquid, and jojoba) up to 20%. The various cationic polymers allow formulators to develop products with a wide viscosity range and pH range (3-10).
Colour retention study: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 or Polyquaternium-37 powder on colour retention. The study was conducted using the parameters: Figure 1.
Reference line Simple Mask 0
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60 -70 -80 -90
-100 SNF Hair Mask Market Reference 1737 GPG ■ 1037XT■ Control (No polymer) ■ Untreated ■
30 24 18 12 6 0
Wash 0
Wash 1
Wash 2 Figure 3: Measurement of colour intensity on hair tresses. Simple Mask Ingredient Water Emollient Preservative
FLOCARE PSD 1037 LV
FLOCARE C139 PF
INCI Water Isopropyl Palmitate
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphensin (and) Caprylyl Glycol
Polyquaternium 37 Polyquaternium 39
Red dye method summary: Caucasian bleached hair tresses were wet then washed using a Sodium Laureth Sulfate surfactant solution. After the tresses were rinsed and air dried, they were combed. The hair tresses were separately immersed
in a 0.1% active polymer solution using each polymer and rinsed. Next, the hair tresses were
(Formula based on FLOCARE PSD 1037 LV)
94.09 3.00
0.80 2.11 – Figure 4: Prototype formulations comparative to market reference.
dipped into 0.05% red dye 80 solution, rinsed, and air-dried. The degree of pigment retained was
observed and measured. Finally, the hair tresses were rewashed with the SLES surfactant solution, rinsed, and dried. The colour intensity was observed and measured. A spectro colorimeter was used to compare
the difference between the control hair tresses (no added colour) versus hair tresses with red dye solution. The more intense the colour remaining on the hair tresses, the less colour released during hair washing. This indicates that Polyquaternium-37 attached to the hair tresses and bonded the red dye (Fig 2).
Test conducted on bleached Caucasian hair -88.3
Colour enhancing properties The hair tresses were washed in a sulfate surfactant system four consecutive times. After four washes, Polyquaternium 37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 shows a colour reduction of approximately 32%. Simultaneously, the hair tresses treated with Polyquaternium 37 (powdered) had a colour reduction of roughly 29%. The results in Figure 3 showed the polymer’s long-lasting effect on decreasing colour desorption wash after wash. Even after four washes, the colour intensity remains higher than when the hair tresses were treated with no polymer in liquid or powder form.
-95 Figure 5: Wet combing force data compared to benchmark product. PERSONAL CARE September 2021 -94.8
Polyquaternium 37 wet combing force study: The study evaluated various Polyquaternium 37 variants alone in a formulation and
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SNF Hair Mask (Formula based on FLOCARE PSD 1037 LV + FLOCARE C139 PF)
91.09 3.00
0.80 2.11 3.00
12 Ingredients (not including fragrance)
Market Reference
Wash 3
Wash 4
Wet combing force variation (%)
Average colour a*
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