26 MEN’S GROOMING
is compared to water, soap, an older formulation, or a competitor’s product or various formulations. Clinical grading is used to measure product harshness, skin penetration/ skin residue. Corneometer is used to measure the skin’s hydration, Sebumeter to measure the skin’s sebum content, and tape stripping to measure the depth of product penetration.
Sweat & odour control products A variety of antiperspirant and deodorant options exist in today’s market. Consumers looking to freshen underarms, prevent odour caused by the bacterial breakdown of sweat or impede perspiration have their choice of sticks, gels, wipes, and sprays. While deodorants only mask or neutralise the body odour caused by bacteria, antiperspirants temporarily suppress the flow of sweat. The hall mark for sweat and odour protection is a combination antiperspirant-deodorant. At present, aluminium salts are the only
FDA-approved chemical antiperspirant. However, high concentrations of aluminum used to prevent sweating have proven irritating for consumers. There is high demand for products free of aluminium, fragrances, dyes, lanolin, parabens, and other potentially irritating ingredients. A general study design for antiperspirant
products involves a brief evaluation of the subject’s underarms conducted by trained study staff to confirm acceptability. Subjects who qualify for the study are given a mild non- antimicrobial soap to use while participating in a 2-3 weeks’ washout period. Upon return, subjects have their vitals like blood pressure, temperature recorded, and if qualified, subjects participate in an approximate 80-minute hot room procedure for sweat collection. If they continue to qualify, subjects producing sufficient sweat following the collection period are randomised to treatment with the test product to one designated axilla versus the placebo product in the other axilla. The formulation is applied once daily for 4 consecutive days using the same designated underarm for the test product and placebo product. Approximately 8 hours and 24 hours following the fourth application, subjects return to the test site for an 80-minute hot room session for sweat collection. Successful
Figure 3: Shaving razors can often leave men struggling with irritated facial skin and razor bumps. New botanically infused creams and gels can help prevent these issues, providing men with younger looking and healthier skin.
products should show reduction in the amount of sweat. For Deodorant efficacy we have trained sniffers (odour judges) for evaluating odour.
Shaving products Men’s skin care is mandated by the regular need to remove facial hair. Problems can arise with improper hair removal which causes irritation and razor burn. New shaving products, techniques and ingredients with known skin protectant properties are constantly being introduced to improve male skin health. Such products work either by softening hair or by improving hydration of facial skin before, during or post shaving and by improving the skin barrier function. Shaving products on the market today may include: Shaving Soaps: Shaving Soaps produce
lather on rubbing and help in effective shaving. They have ingredients like vitamin E, aloe and coconut oil which help soften the hair and the skin.
Shaving Creams: Shaving Creams are often
used for an effective shave and are sold as aerosol foam or gel. Shaving creams are made with hydrating ingredients like glycerin (with its humectant properties), aloe and oatmeal that help the razor in gliding easily across the skin and emollients like shea butter and lipids that help support and restore the skin barrier. Pre-shave Products: Pre-shave lotions
and creams are products used just before wet shaving or electric shaving. Such products usually contain an astringent to reduce any infection of cuts and scrapes in a closer shave and protective antioxidants like vitamins like A, C and E. After-Shave Products: These are products
intended to be used after shaving. They contain alcohol which helps close pores and prevent razor burn. We test shaving razors, shaving creams, brushes, pre- and post-shaving products, and total shaving regimens, with particular emphasis on men who experience razor bumps. New shaving products often include a blend of soothing and anti-inflammatory plant ingredients. Clinical study design typically involves subjects aged 20 to 65. During the clinical trial, clinical grading by trained skin graders is employed to detect skin roughness, skin tone, skin radiance, razor bumps and lesions. The grading is completed at baseline, 30 minutes post shaving, and two- and three-days’ post shaving. Skin hydration measurements with Corneometer are conducted and digital photos of the skin may be taken for analysis. Self-assessment questionnaires to evaluate product efficacy and tolerability by subjects are often included as they provide valuable feedback for our clients.
Figure 4: The Corneometer and Sebumeter probes pictured here are used to measure skin hydration and sebum on subject’s skin respectively.
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
Skin care products – moisturisers Moisturisers are used to address a range of men’s skin care needs — including protection, healing, and treatment. Moisturisers help prevent dry skin, improve appearance, heal irritated skin, and treat diseased skin. The most common ways to test moisturiser efficacy is to measure hydration and the skin’s barrier function. Specifically, we measure trans- epidermal water loss (“TEWL”) and skin surface hydration by electrical capacitance in already irritated skin or in skin irritation created by mechanical or chemical processes e.g. tape stripping or using sodium lauryl sulfate. Following this, the moisturiser product is applied and testing carried out to see if this product prevents irritation and assists in repairing the damaged barrier. A decrease in TEWL in normal skin is sometimes found following application of a moisturiser. It should be noted that not all moisturiser formulations work equally, or even by the same mechanisms. When normal skin is studied, a commercially available moisturiser containing novel ingredients like peptides may prove superior to formulations without it, inducing a significant increase in hydration and/or in other stratum corneum (“SC”) attributes by using kinetic and longer use designs. Regimen testing can be effective in determining how well moisturisers work
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