36 MEN’S GROOMING
FORMULATION 1: CLEAR ANTI-DANDRUFF Ingredients (INCI)
EMAL 270D Sodium Laureth Sulfate
AKYPO FOAM RL 40 Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate
LEVENOL H&B Glycereth-2 Cocoate
AMIDET N PEG-4 Rapeseedamide
TRIKENOLTM PLUS Methylpropanediol, 4-Terpineol, Salicylic Acid, Salix Alba (Willow)Bark Extract
XIAMETER® OFX-0193 Silicone polyether copolymer
JAGUAR® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
EDTA.Na4 KAO Fragrance
Preservative, pH adjust, etc. Deionized Water
% w/w 13.5
5.0 2.0 1.5
2.1
0.5 1.0
2.0 0.3 q.s.
Up to 100
components prevents or slows down the bitter process. Dandruff is caused by multiple factors, an important one being the excess of sebum in the scalp. Ananti-dandruff shampoo must remove that sebum and hydrate the irritated area at the same time. ■ Clear Anti-dandruff-with Trikenol (ref. C-201) (Formulation 1) This anti-dandruff shampoo is based on Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and three special co-surfactants: Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (Akypo Foam RL 40), Glycereth-2 Cocoate (Levenol H&B) and PEG-4 Rapeseedamide (Amidet N). The first one is an ether carboxylate of anionic nature, like SLES but with enhanced properties: foam creaminess, cleansing effect and mildness. Glycereth-2 Cocoate is a glycerine-derived 100% active surfactant that offers a highly moisturising effect without compromising foamability and viscosity. Finally, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide acts as a very mild thickener with solubilising and foam boosting properties. As an anti-dandruff agent, a synergistic blend of two ingredients of plant origin with salicylic derivatives has been selected. All together, they create premium cost-
effective anti-dandruff shampoos that will meet any man’s expectations. ■ Fortifying - With hair loss prevention (ref. C-210) Glycereth-2 Cocoate (Levenol H&B) provides the moisturising properties while Lauryl Hydroxysultaine (Betadet S-20) helps boost foaming and guarantees good cold stability. Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (Akypo Foam LM 40) lowers the irritation level of the formula. Special fortifying ingredients like vitamins and minerals are added to this optimum surfactant system to create a high-quality shampoo with an outstanding performance.
Bath gels When looking for a bath gel, the male consumer will be interested in three main aspects (apart from subjective inputs like fragrance and packaging): cost-effectiveness, as the number one aspect most times,
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
followed by moisturising properties that reduce skin dryness after showering, and mildness, especially for those with sensitive skin or even skin conditions. ■ Body Wash - Mousse (ref. C-337) (Formulation 2) This sulfate-free shower gel is based on Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate (Akypo Foam LM 25), a premium anionic surfactant that offers a soft and creamy foam, very stable and with a special texture, combined with Lauryl Hydroxysultaine (Betadet S-20), an amphoteric surfactant very mild to the skin that improves the stability of the formula at low temperature and Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate (Emanon EV-E), key ingredient to achieve high foamability and smooth feeling. This formulation is a body mousse, that can be packaged in an aerosol spray or in a pump spray, to produce a fine dense foam.
Two-In-One: hair shampoo and body gel Convenient products and sustainability are important. Men are interested in versatile, easy to use and fast-acting personal grooming products. The impact of COVID-19 has affected people and the clean beauty trend will change the market asking for more transparency and taking care not only of consumers but also of the environment. ■ Hair & Body dilutable Cleansing (ref. C-321) Our sustainable proposal is an ultra-mild foaming concentrated Hair & Body Cleanser. This product is made in concentrate form to be mixed with water for consumption. A clear viscous hair & body shampoo is obtained placing 30 mL in an empty 100 mL bottle, adding tap water and shaking it. This new formula represents a step forward towards our commitment to create environmentally-friendly solutions that meet the needs of our customers.
FORMULATION 3: SHAVING CREAM ULTRA-MILD Ingredients (INCI)
AKYPO FOAM LM 25 Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate
LEVENOL H&B Glycereth-2 Cocoate
DANOX BF-22 Pearling concentrate
MerquatTM 550 PR Polyquaternium-7
Glycerine Coconut Oil
KAO Fragrance Preservative
Deionized Water
% w/w 40.5
5.0 4.0 3.0
3.0 2.0 q.s. q.s.
Up to 100
FORMULATION 2: HAIR & BODY DILUTABLE CLEANSING
Ingredients (INCI)
AKYPO FOAM LM 25 Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate
BETADET S-20 Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
KAOPAN TW-IS-399S PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate
EMANON EV-E Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate
FINDET ARH/52 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
KAO SOFCARE GP-1 PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether
Propylene Glycol
Citric Acid (50% aq. Sol.) KAO Fragrance Preservative
Deionized Water
% w/w 38.8
31.9 4.2 3.1 1.4
0.9 14.6
0.7 q.s. q.s.
Up to 100
Shaving The shaving process has some drawbacks, like damage to the skin due to the use of blades and razors and drying effect due to aggressive ingredients., ■ Shaving Cream Ultra-Mild – outstanding foam texture (ref. C-309) (Formulation 3) Glycerine-based shaving foams are designed to give a soft feeling during shaving and help the blades do their job. With Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate, an Ultra-Mild Shaving Cream can be formulated to provide a unique creamy foam that will take care of the beard and skin while using the mildest surfactants. The foam will remain stable to soften the skin and ease the shaving process. This product does not contain sulfates or soap. This formulation incorporates Glycereth-2 Cocoate (Levenol H&B), a surfactant with foam- boosting and moisturising properties even at low rates. This formula creates a consistent foam which is easily spreadable over the face and leaves a silky feel on the skin.
After-shave products Historically, aftershaves were no more than cologne with a reduced fragrance level. Nowadays they have evolved into more complex products but keeping the same goals and basic functions. A simple transparent, cost-effective lotion
can be prepared easily by using Aloe Vera that has a soothing and wound-healing effect, a re-fatting and conditioning agent, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Emanon HE) to improve skin condition after shaving and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Findet ARH/52) that helps solubilise the perfume added to the formula. Alcohol is generally added to give a more refreshing feeling. Aside from the soothing effects, protective
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