HAIR CARE
Minimalist ingredients for today’s hair care routine
Valérie Billebaud, Angelia Peavey – SNF s.a., France, SNF Holding Company, USA
The past year has left consumers wanting to simplify their beauty routine. Many are looking for vegan and more sustainable hair care products. What better way of doing this than providing consumers with formulations that use fewer ingredients, are vegan, and sustainable while delivering desired benefits. Most hair conditioners and masks contain
emulsifiers, oils, silicones as ingredients. Formulators typically have to heat these ingredients in order to use them in their formulations. This process requires time and energy. The trend of “less is more” is becoming a requirement. By reducing the number of ingredients in a hair care formulation, consumer companies can save money on the cost of raw materials, time and energy by using cold process formulations. Companies can pass on these savings to the end-users, a win-win in today’s climate. Many personal care chemists are familiar
with rheology modifiers based on an inverse emulsion process of polymerization. The rheology modifiers are used throughout the personal care industry. Skin care applications traditionally use anionic inverse emulsions while hair care applications use cationic ones. These products allow formulators to develop formulations that reduce the number of ingredients because they already contain the polymer, an emollient, and an inverting surfactant. Each of these components are valued by the formulators. The water-soluble polymer through the charge density delivers viscosity, sensory effect and compatibility with surfactants. The emollient contributes to the sensory benefits of your final formulation. The inverse emulsion polymers are typically water in oil emulsion which release the polymer
With polymer Control
TABLE 1 Product reference
FLOCARE ET 1237 PP1 FLOCARE ET 1737 GPG
FLOCARE PSD 1037 LV FLOCARE PSD 1037 XT
INCI name
Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Polyquaternium 37 Polyquaternium 37
Form Liquid Emulsion Liquid Emulsion
Powder Emulsion Powder Emulsion
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Hair swatch is immersed in a 0.1% active polymer solution
Polymer treatment:
treated with a 0.05% red dye (anionic) solution
Figure 1: Summary of Red dye test procedure.
when diluted in a water-based formulation. These inverse emulsions are very stable. The inverse emulsion polymers are
crosslinked, pseudo plastic, and non- thixotropic. Inverse emulsion polymers also reduce the number of raw materials a consumer product company needs to keep on hand in the formulation plant; thereby, reducing operational cost and inventory. They are also pre-neutralised and easy to
With polymer Control
disperse. Formulating with inverse emulsion systems yield high viscosity ranges at low dosage, unique textures ranging from light to heavy and sprayable to creams/masks, and stable designs over a wide pH range (3 – 10). Compared to hot process pilot-scale systems, cold process inverse emulsion systems increase sustainability by reducing equivalent carbon dioxide emissions by nearly 96% and save 70% in time. Cationic inverse emulsion polymers can be
used to develop hair conditioners, treatment products, styling, transparent conditioning gels, colouring, and men’s grooming products. Cationic polymers are positively charged and can offset the negative charge from most shampoo formulations. They make a covalent link to negatively charged damaged hair and form a protective film. The cationic inverse emulsions help increase the wet combability, manageability, and softness of the hair. The study in this article will focus on
Unwashed
www.personalcaremagazine.com After 4th Wash Figure 2: Picture of dyed hair tresses unwashed and after four washes.
cationic inverse emulsion polymers for hair care. These polymers help solve some of the hurdles (combability, conditioning, lasting colour) that formulators typically face when
September 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Hair swatch is then
Dyeing:
colour, the less pigment is released during the washing step
Colour measurement: The more intense the
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