28 MEN’S GROOMING
Figure 6: Testing of a scalp product in a controlled laboratory environment by a trained technician.
for that one product that makes them feel incredible and leaves them with a picture of how they see their hair should look, in their minds eye. Most consumers feel it is important for
hair to preserve and maintain its cleanliness, softness, volume and shine. Experts are recognising that a healthy scalp is the key to maintaining healthy hair. Hair care products come in two forms
– leave-in products like oils and mousses or rinse- off products like shampoos and conditioners. Scalp actives include products with special ingredients like coal tar, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, salicylic acid or mineral oil) for treating specific problems like scalp dryness/flakiness, or conditions like dandruff, alopecia, seborrheic dermatitis. These ingredients are added in various cosmetic products like nourishing shampoos, conditioners and oils. Dietary supplements (flax, fish oil supplements, rich in omega-3 fatty acids are known to help fight dryness or zinc supplements along with vitamins A, B, C or E are used for maintaining healthy hair, nails and skin). Hair evaluations are routinely offered
for assessment of hair density, thickness, moisture, frizz control, static, manageability, combing forces, shine, volume, breakage, softness, suppleness, color, curl effect, curl retention, gloss, anti-loss/growth products and hair photo protectors. Scalp evaluations include dryness/flaking, hydration, irritation, inflammation, erythema, pruritus, oiliness, fatty acids, cytokine levels, overall scalp analyses in vivo digital photography/microscopy. We offer a systematic measurement of scalp clinical and physiological parameters. Typically, a clinical study to test an anti-hair loss or hair-growth product is designed for 3-6 months on volunteers with mild to moderate hair loss. Methodologies for evaluation of loss include non-invasive techniques (hair counts, pull tests, pluck tests, standardised wash test, photographs, dermoscopy, hair weight, phototrichogram, trichoscan, microscopy and invasive techniques, such
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
Figure 7: Testing of a heat protectant hair product on a study volunteer in a controlled laboratory environment.
as a scalp biopsy. Effects studied include decrease of the telogen hair density, increase of the anagen hair density, increase of the growth coefficient (A/T) ratio at baseline, midpoint and at end of treatment phase. For hair replenishment products, trained evaluators assess the subjects’ hair for attributes of shine, volume, thickness, softness, and general appearance/ condition at baseline and after 8 to 12 weeks approximately. The Brush Friction Count Method (BFCM) is employed and intact and broken hair are each counted. Macro photographs are taken of an area on the head with thinning hair and assessed for hair growth and count at baseline and/ or at midpoint and at end of treatment period. Also, self-evaluation by subjects for any perceived improvements of specific criteria can provide useful information about the product. Dandruff and Scalp Seborrheic Dermatitis
(SD) are scalp conditions both caused by a yeast called Malassezia and result in flaking, erythema, itching and inflammation. The study design may include one or all of the following: visual grading for erythema and flaking, non- invasive instrumentation like squamometry, digital photos along with self-perception questionnaires. Recently, clients are asking for inclusion of scalp microbiome because of its influence on scalp health, and involvement in the pathophysiology of scalp-related disorders. As the scalp surface provides a distinct microenvironment, studying pH, sebum level, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), dandruff severity, as well as the dysbiosis in the cutaneous microbiome assumes great importance. Thus, a systematic measurement of scalp clinical and physiological parameters along with the scalp microbiome and associated functional pathways can help reveal important information. Beard oils are popular and help hydrate, add shine, tame astray hair, reduce itching during early growth, and provide nourishment of both facial hair and facial skin thereby help in keeping the beard neat and tidy. Ingredients
like almond, grape seed and jojoba oil all are rich in vitamin E which keeps hair and skin soft and smooth. Shea butter helps to keep beards soft and healthy looking. Clove oil because of its antiseptic/antibacterial properties is increasingly being added to products and helps keep the beard clean and the face break out free. The damage with use of blow dryers for hair can be corrected with products called heat protectants which cover the cuticle and form a shield locking in moisture and nourishment and decreasing the damage. Testing efficacy of hair care regimens is
becoming increasingly common and includes testing of shampoo, scalp and conditioner treatments, scalp/hair serums, beard care products including dietary supplements. This involves a greater understanding of the complexity of the formulations individually and when used in combination and choosing from various criteria and techniques mentioned above for a good scientific right fit study design.
Conclusion At Princeton Consumer Research, we continue to provide safety and efficacy testing services for male grooming products. As the male grooming industry becomes increasingly complex and expansive, we recognise the need for effective, timely, and science- based clinical testing. Our testing services range from simple to complex, allowing us to provide the best study design and clinical trial execution for companies and budgets of all sizes. PCR is constantly expanding its knowledge base and utilising experience gained over the years to keep up with the evolving trends. We are here to offer the best service to help our customers with rational and well thought out strategies for testing their products and helping them with their timely product launches.
Reference 1.
https://www.globenewswire.com/ newsrelease/2020/08/20/2081562/0/en/ Global-Men-s-Grooming-Products-Industry. html
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PC
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