COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK
FORMULATION 2 Ingredients
Water
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum
Glycerin
LIPOID P 75-3 Preservative
Pentylene Glycol Cetearyl Alcohol
Almond Oil Jojoba Oil Shea Butter
aforementioned Formulation 1 was tested: we added a further formulation with a significantly lower viscosity to the screening (Formulation 2). LIPOID P 75-3 was also able to score points
in these tests - there were no abnormalities in any of the stability parameters and no significant deviations could be found in the pH values either.
Compatibility: thickeners In addition to emulsifiers, thickeners are another essential basic ingredient for the stability of emulsions. In our work so far, no significant incompatibilities could be noticed. In our opinion, LIPOID P 75-3 can be combined with all common thickeners. Furthermore, LIPOID P 75-3 is ideally suited for consistencies from fluid serums to viscous creams.
Compatibility: co-emulsifiers LIPOID P 75-3 can be used in large variations not only as an emulsifier but also as a co-emulsifier. Compatibility with various commercially available emulsifiers (glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteareth-20) was tested. For this purpose, test-formulations were produced with the respective recommended concentrations of a selection of popular emulsifiers. Then the same formulations were produced with addition of 0.5 and 1 % use concentration of LIPOID P 75-3, respectively. In this test series, too, there were no abnormalities in the stability results. LIPOID P 75-3
Silkiness
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
can therefore also be used as a co-emulsifier with a wide range of commercially available emulsifiers.
Manufacturing processes LIPOID P 75-3 can be used in the conventional hot-hot process, but it is also possible to produce formulations with other processes, Formulation 1 was produced using the following processes: ■ Hot-hot process ■ Hot-cold process ■ Hot-hot-cold process ■ One pot process The formulations were examined
microscopically after production and after completion of the stability tests. Here it could be shown that the droplet distribution is most homogeneous in the hot-hot process; the distributions with the hot-cold- and the one- pot-process were slightly worse; the distribution in the hot-hot-cold process was significantly worse. Despite these differences, however, no deviations could be found in the stability tests. If required, formulations with LIPOID P 75-3 can be manufactured using all of the tested processes, but we recommend the hot-hot process.
Skin-feel study When looking for a smooth and silky skin feel, manufacturers of cosmetic products often choose to formulate with silicones. Still, there is ongoing interest in natural, biomimetic, non- occlusive skin texture modifiers. Hydrogenated phospholipids have the ability to generate an
Spreadability
1 % LIPOID P 75-3 ■ 4% Dimethicon 350 ■
Natipide Eco Ectoin Water
Citric Acid Viscosity: Ca. 210 mPas
exceptionally smooth and silky skin feel, without covering the skin with an occlusive film. To demonstrate these skin feel benefits, LIPOID P 75-3 was compared to a widely used silicone oil. In the study a sensory assessment of two
topically applied formulations was performed by a selected female panel (20 female volunteers with healthy skin, aged between 18 – 60 years) trained in the sensory perception of cream products. One of the products was formulated with 1 % of LIPOID P 75-3, the other contained 4 % of silicone oil. The results of the study showed that the use
of LIPOID P 75-3 results in an equally smooth and silky skin sensation as the use of the silicone oil, even at significantly lower use level.
Summary LIPOID P 75-3 is an easy to process and versatile biomimetic o/w emulsifier that mimics the lamellar bilayers of natural skin lipids and gives a unique smooth and silky skin feel. LIPOID P 75-3 as sole emulsifier will tolerate
Oiliness
oil loading levels up to 40 % at a use level of 3 %, at a use level of 1 % it will still allow up to 25 % oil loading. It is easy to use in various formulations, no special conditions (temperature or shear power) or equipment is needed. LIPOID P 75-3 will give stable emulsions in a pH-ratio from 4 to 8 and is perfectly combinable with a broad range of co-emulsifiers, thickeners, emollients, preservatives and actives. LIPOID P 75-3 can be incorporated in the water phase as well as in the fat phase, however, dispersion in the water phase is recommended. The phases must be heated to 60-80°C (depending on the medium used), the formulation should then be produced in the usual hot-hot process. Other production methods are also possible. Additionally, the use even of small amounts
of LIPOID P 75-3 in a formulation will result in significant improvement of skin feel.
Stickiness Figure 3: Skin feel of LIPOID P 75-3 vs. silicone oil.
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1 = very 2 = slightly 3 = not
Lipoid Kosmetik AG, Sennweidstrasse 44/46, CH-6312 Steinhausen, Switzerland Phone: +41 41 748 3333 Fax: +41 41 748 3344 Email:
info@lipoid-kosmetik.com
September 2021 PERSONAL CARE PC
% w/w 55.20
0.75 2.00
1.00 2.80 3.75
0.50
10.00 5.00 4.00
4.00 1.00
10.00 q.s.
7
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