SKIN MICROBIOME
The skin microbiome: cultivating innovation
Tatiana Sergeenko, Duncan Smith - Sagentia Innovation, UK
Scientific understanding of the skin microbiome continues to expand bringing new opportunities for product innovation. In recent years, the consumer market has seen a wave of ‘biome’ products launched. However, we have only scratched the surface of what might be possible in this exciting field. There is much potential for knowledge of the
skin microbiome to underpin advancements in personalised, effective skin care. Activity is likely to target skin health for people of different ages, ethnicities and genders, as well as in various geographies due to the impact of environmental factors. Skin problems such as acne, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis are already receiving attention, and this is set to continue. Additional areas that benefit from increased knowledge of the skin microbiome include scalp care, body odour control, wound care and intimate care. All these categories offer prospects for new product development. To achieve competitive differentiation and
consumer appeal, new products are likely to require both diagnostic technology and formulation expertise. There are also regulatory considerations to bear in mind, especially for products or treatments that blur the lines between beauty and medical care. This article summarises the current innovation opportunity and considers factors affecting successful product development strategies.
What we know about the skin microbiome From a scientific perspective, advancements in molecular approaches for the characterisation of microbial diversity have enhanced understanding of the skin microbiome. Just like the gut, the skin is colonised
by a diverse collection of microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi and viruses as well as mites. It is now known that several dominant organisms such as Staphylococcus and Propionibacterium constitute the majority of skin microbiota.1
the rare or transient organisms that make up the balance.
Microbiome stability The skin microbiome is relatively stable over time and most of its microorganisms are harmless or even beneficial. The Skin Microbiome,2
a paper by Dr
Elizabeth Grice and Dr Julia Serge, explains that symbiotic microorganisms on the skin “protect
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Consumer appeal Consumer awareness of probiotics and prebiotics for the gut microbiome has grown significantly over the past few years. Today, recognition of the existence and importance of the skin microbiome is also becoming more mainstream. People are increasingly mindful of environmental factors that make us susceptible to dysbiosis, such as diet, exposure to sunlight, pollution or over- hygiene. Consequently, interest in the modulation
or management of the skin microbiome is growing. For example, consumer lifestyle magazine Vogue published an article in March 2021 titled Why you need to start paying attention to your skin microbiome – especially now. It positions the interface between skincare and the skin microbiome as ‘a new frontier’: “While still in its infancy, skin microbiome research has awakened a whole new understanding of skin biology and shifted the paradigm of how we take care of our skin and create healthier products.”3
against invasion by more pathogenic or harmful organisms”. So, the microbiome supports the skin in its primary function as a physical barrier and may also play a role “educating the billions of T cells that are found in the skin, priming them to respond to similarly marked pathogenic cousins.” In other words, it makes decisions about what can enter the skin and what is blocked. Nevertheless, imbalance can occur when
even one strain outgrows the others. There is still little understanding of what factors drive variation in these organisms, and how fluctuation is associated with skin disease. Grice and Serge conclude that “many
However, less is known about
common skin diseases are associated with a specific stage of life, a specific topographical location and/or specific microorganisms. Whether this specificity is driven by the endogenous microbial community structure remains to be determined.”2 It is not only skin diseases that are linked
to the skin microbiome. Beauty factors such as dryness, overproduction of sebum, breakouts and redness may also be associated with microbial imbalance. The same is true of early ageing of the skin, where the progress of factors like loss of elasticity, uneven tone and wrinkles is accelerated.
Pioneers of skin care’s new frontier Microbiologists, immunologists, dermatologists and genomic scientists all play a role in characterisation and understanding of the skin microbiota. Genomic approaches such as metagenomic sequencing have revealed a much greater diversity of organisms compared to culture- based methods. However, these processes are complicated by the skin’s exposure to external factors. Determining which microorganisms are transient and which are resident is an enduring challenge.2 What has become clear is that the skin
microbiota varies in different parts of the body. Metagenomic analysis has revealed that Staphylococcus and Corynebacterium spp. are the most abundant organisms colonising moist areas such as the armpit and palm of the hand. However, characteristically dry areas including the forearm, shin and back of the hand host a more diverse, mixed representation of several bacteria. More work is needed to understand
the role specific microorganisms play in skin health from a beauty and medical perspective. Nevertheless, progressive skin microbiome start-ups are increasingly attracting the attention of personal care giants as well as investors.
September 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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