MEN’S GROOMING


Because men care about their personal care


Pilar Castán, Neus Subirats, Núria Marimon – Kao Chemicals Europe, Spain.


In 2020, with men spending a lot more time at home than usual due to the coronavirus pandemic (COVID-19), normal grooming routines have been relaxed, severely impacting sales this year. Spending will also be restricted by the economic impact of the pandemic. Sales will rebound in 2021, before settling back into annually stagnating rates from 2022. Global sales in 2020 have been 41,263.1


EUR million (Retail


Values RSP), -4.7% less than previous year but a moderate growth is expected for the three big categories: shaving, toiletries and fragrances. In addition, facial hair fashion continues


to put pressure on men’s shaving, the biggest category. Men’s shaving remains under pressure


in young men due to the facial hair trend. Multiple different styles of facial hair have emerged in this trend, including bushy or trimmed beards as well as “designer” stubble. With far fewer men now considering it important to be clean shaved daily, sales of men’s shaving are likely to remain under pressure throughout the forecast period. For some, however, facial hair needs to be well groomed, trimmed, shaped and clean and tidy, creating room for a new breed of men’s grooming products to emerge, such as beard oils and moustache wax. According to Mintel’s report there are three


important topics in men’s BPC: ■ Ingredients: men are concerned about the impact that certain chemicals have on their health, which aligns with the “clean” and mild trend observed in the Beauty and Personal Care market. ■ Convenience: men want their grooming routine to be as fast, simple and low cost as possible and therefore multi-functional products are particularly appealing. ■ Guidance: men are looking to improve their hair and skin, and they want/need help to do so, but there are few retailers proactively improving hair care and skin care shopping experiences for men. It is widely known that men and women


have a different skin, although they share the same basic structure. The three main differences between them are firmness, thickness and sebaceous secretion. Male skin is around 25% thicker than female skin, which makes it more resistant and less affected by allergens or UV rays. Male skin also ages more slowly thanks to its firmness although ageing becomes abrupt at around 60. The secretion of more sebum


www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Men’s grooming focus areas.


for hormonal reasons moisturises the skin but in excess, gives an undesirably unclean look and can worsen possible cases of dandruff. Furthermore, cheek and neck skin is often dry and dehydrated due to shaving action. On the other hand, men’s preferences in


personal care include simple, results-oriented, multipurpose and time-saving products that can make them look nice easily and particularly younger men demand a more gender-neutral approach. This formulation guideline is focused on very mild products, easy to use and performing. From Kao Chemicals Europe (KCE), we


propose different solutions for men’s grooming based on our specialty surfactants and Kao perfumes, that allow to easily formulate a wide range of personal care products. Alkyl Ether Carboxylic Acids and their salts


(Akypo) are anionic surfactants very mild to the skin and eyes, with good ecotoxicity and excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants – including cationic type and specific additives like cationic polymers used in shampoos. Among them, Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (Akypo Foam RL 40) is the best option due to its properties and good cost/ performance ratio and Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate (Akypo Foam LM 25),


is the best


solution for sulfate-free formulation, obtaining a luxurious foam, with a very small bubble size and high foam consistency. Hydroxysultaines (Betadet S-20 and


Betadet SHR) are highly effective amphoteric surfactants that improve the performance of final cosmetic products. They are extremely mild co-surfactants that increase the performance of personal care formulations compared to alkylbetaines and amidopropyl betaines. They provide a great formulation


stability, enhancing foam volume, and an improved thickening effect. Non-ionic surfactants are very important,


mainly in cleansing formulations because they help reduce the irritation of the main surfactants, have a thickening effect, modify the foam texture and, depending on the chemical structure, improve skin and hair condition. Glycereth-2 Cocoate (Levenol H&B),


is a glyceryl ester


derivative. It is very mild and has emollient, moisturising, thickening and foam boosting properties, which make it a very good all-in-one co-surfactant. It also has a good ecotoxicological profile. It is liquid and has no risk/safety warnings, which makes it easy to handle and cold processable. Lauryl Lactate (Exceparl LM- LC), 100% natural according to ISO 16128, is an excellent thickener for non-traditional cleansing formulations, without sulfates, and furthermore due to its emollient and conditioning properties it can be used also for skin care products. And finally, PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate (Kaopan TW-IS-399S) is an excellent thickener for sulfate- free cleansing products. For skin care products, KCE proposes two


ingredients used widely in Japan: an emulsifier, Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether (Penetol GE-IS), for w/o emulsions specially designed to avoid a sticky feel and easy to spread, and an extremely moisturising lipid, Cholesteryl Isostearate (Exceparl IS-CE-A), with a skin biomimetic structure and non-greasy feel.


Cleansing products Shampoos The two main concerns for a man regarding his hair are alopecia and dandruff. The first one is generated by an excess of testosterone and is very difficult to treat. The use of a very mild and nourishing shampoo with hair fortifying


September 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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