6 COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK
LIPOID P 75-3: For naturalness and quality
Yvonne Friedewald, Dr. Christoph Heidecke, Dr. Vajk Deáky – Lipoid Kosmetik
Phospholipids number among the body’s own building blocks and are an essential part of our cell membranes. Therefore, they are highly biocompatible, completely biodegradable, and irritation-free, making them exceptionally suitable for sophisticated, high-end skin care products. Many of our phospholipids are based on non-GMO soy or on sunflower, and hence perfectly appropriate for COSMOS- approved formulations. In general, whenever a formulation needs more naturalness, tolerability and quality, phospholipids are the right choice.
Hydrogenated phospholipids Hydrogenated phospholipids are excellent biomimetic emulsifiers. Ideally, an emulsifier should both enable stable emulsions with a great skin feel and, at the same time, moisturise and protect the skin. In internal tests we demonstrated that hydrogenated phospholipids are exceptionally capable of stabilising o/w emulsions and are suitable for cosmetic formulations of different viscosities like serums, lotions and creams. Additionally, the use of only small amounts of
hydrogenated phospholipids in a formulation will result in a significant improvement of skin feel. Hydrogenated phospholipids allow the creation
of both rich, luxurious skin care products as well as cost efficient formulations with a premium touch. Due to their unparalleled tolerability and mildness, hydrogenated phospholipids are outstandingly suitable as ingredient in dermocosmetics, products for sensitive or damaged skin, baby care and intimate care.
LIPOID P 75-3 LIPOID P 75-3 is a 100 % natural, COSMOS- approved, easy to process and versatile o/w emulsifier with a perfect skin compatibility and high-sensory skin feel benefits. Because of its superior skin sensation, LIPOID P 75-3 is the all-natural alternative to silicone oils. The hydrogenated phospholipids from non-GMO soybean mimic the lamellar bilayers of natural skin lipids, combining excellent emulsification
Oil HLB Oil Loading (%)
LIPOID P 75-3 Concentration (%) 45C/ 6 Weeks 20C/ 12 Months Cycle Test
MCT 4
25 1
✓ ✓ ✓
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
25 1
✓ ✓ ✓
Squalane 11
40 3
✓ ✓ ✓
September 2021 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
FORMULATION 1 Ingredients
Oil LIPOID P 75-3 Water
Glycerin (86 %) Preservative Xanthan Gum
Dihydroxanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide/Citric Acid Viscosity: Ca. 5500 mPas
Revealing the natural glowing beauty of maturity
Clinical testing for a booming men’s sector
Reshaping body care with biotech microalgae
power with a perfect skin feel and unique moisturising properties.
Application tests The properties of LIPOID P 75-3 were worked out in several application-technical test series. In order to be able to exclude interactions with other raw materials, a simplified formulation with only a few components was used here (Formulation 1).
Use level In the first step, 4 different oils were tested to find out whether LIPOID P 75-3 is compatible with a wide range of oils of varying HLB-values and polarities. For this purpose, MCT, squalane, sunflower oil and jojoba oil were used. All test batches with 3 % LIPOID P 75-3 and
25 % oil were stable in our stability tests. In a next step, tests were carried out with an application concentration of only 1 % LIPOID P 75-3 and 25 % oil.
Sunflower Oil 7
25 1
✓ ✓ ✓
40 3
✓ ✓ ✓
25 1
✓ ✓ ✓
Jojoba Oil 6
40 3
✓ ✓ ✓
Figure 2: Powdered LIPOID P 75-3 product.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% w/w X X
Ad 100 6.00 4.00 0.20 0.80 q.s.
Again, all formulations were stable. Then, the limits of the emulsifying performance
of LIPOID P 75-3 were tested. For this purpose, tests were carried out with a 40 % oil phase. The stability results again were very good. With the exception of the formulation containing MCT (which separated at changing temperature), none of the batches showed any abnormalities after testing. Even emulsions with a low oil concentration of
5 % can be produced with LIPOID P 75-3 without any problems. No special conditions or equipment was used.
Compatibility: pH Besides the amount of oil absorbed, other factors are also important in order to cover a wide range of applicability. An important factor for formulations is the pH value, which plays an enormous role in many aspects such as the effectiveness of preservatives. We have therefore carried out tests here in a slightly acidic pH range down to pH 4.0 in order to be able to assess the performance of LIPOID P 75-3 in these ranges. In order to be able to cover as many aspects as possible and thus realistically assess the performance at pH 4.0, not only the
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