30 MEN’S GROOMING
Products for male grooming and physiology of male skin
Vitaly Solomonov - CleanestiQ Labs, US
Male grooming and cosmetic products for men are on the rise. While humankind is pushing through the new viral pandemic, the beauty world is still infested with another pandemic of new and the newest products for men. All levels of the cosmetic businesses are involved in this wave, from the top selective brands to the small independent manufacturers and handcrafters. The influx of these preparations of all possible forms reflects modern trends, marketing as well as the fact that men are chasing healthy, nice looking skin and trying to transform the simple but boring shaving routine into an exciting, pleasurable ritual. While we see growing demand for this type
of product, some developers apparently miss the importance of the peculiar physiological properties of male skin. This can be explained by several factors, as some of the properties do not significantly impact the efficacy and safety of a formulation, while others become a tribute to some cultural or marketing requirements. For example, some trends in male skin care reflect a strongly conservative approach to grooming with a possible motto – “we are shaving like dads did with that old school stuff”. This kind of fashion embraces many men, which even create the special clubs known as “wet shavers” clubs. Simultaneously, the younger generation are longing to use the high-end products with the latest possible ingredients, technologies and forms. Obviously, basic dermatological findings in the skin should help cosmetic chemists create healthier and more efficient products for men and at the same time avoid some negative or even dangerous effects we can run into in some grooming products nowadays. Dr. Albert Kligman1
explained the basics of the epithelial
functions, skin barriers, permeability in his special doctrine “Corneology”, which later became one of the basics of modern Aesthetic Dermatology and one of the general approaches of creating and evaluating topical preparations including cosmetics. The fundamental biophysical parameters such as Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), pH, epidermal lipids consistency, condition of the skin barrier along with mechanical properties, collagen formation and thickness, the level of hydration and sebum production should be taken into consideration for formulating any cosmetic products including preparations for men’s skin care of all types. Some of them are less substantial, while others are more important in conjunction with some
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
skin’s physiological properties along with human culture or habits in skin care. The latter also causes some reactions that should be considered.
Sebum Sex hormones and their activities explain the major diversities between skin properties in men and women. Androgens have a direct impact on sebum rate productivity, which, according to multiple studies, is higher in men. When the level of testosterone and its derivatives decreases with ageing, the deficiency of the hydrolipid mantle occurs and skin dryness may take place. However, some studies do not confirm this hypothesis completely.2,4
The excessive secretion of
sebum leads to negative events – disruption of the lipid structures in the epidermis, it becomes an excellent base for the pathogens, especially for Staphylococcus aureus, that often causes folliculitis or lipophilic fungi, which may initiate Tinea barbae. The presence of abundant sebum, that often characterises “oily” skin does not automatically mean a normal level of hydration – this type of skin remains often dehydrated. Insufficient sebum production may result in excessive dryness and again, the disintegration of the skin barrier.2,3,4
Altogether, these events cause the
signs of inflammation in the dermal structures. In respect of the cosmetic formulations, oily skin needs “regulating” components5
that
normalise the function of the sebaceous glands and decrease the degradation of lipid sebum constituents. Simultaneously, the ingredients that maintain the water level are also needed in such formulations.
TEWL and hydration These two important parameters for any skin do not show a relevant difference for men and
women, excluding people aged 50 and over (2,4,6)
when male skin becomes more prone
to losing the ability to hold water due to the following factors: ■ Degradation of collagen ■ Degradation of Natural Moisturising Factor components ■ Degradation of the epidermal lipids and their synthesis in keratinocytes. ■ Degradation of the epidermal proteins such as aquaporins, etc The water deficiency in the stratum
corneum and dermis greatly affects the consistency of the skin barriers on all levels. All other physiological functions in the skin are only feasible at the normal level of water and water binding molecules. It is logical to come to conclusion that water and especially bound water is an essential cosmetic ingredient. That is why the barrier creams, components of the Natural Moisturising Factor, lactates, urea, osmolytes may bring visible effects of rejuvenation and would be preferable for men aged over 50.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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