32 MEN’S GROOMING
sticks are getting popular nowadays because beards and moustaches are still fashionable and the classic lather often impedes to perfectly shape the facial hairs. Modern basic ingredients such as lauroyl glutamic or cocoyl glutamic acids help to create interesting new soap-like products and sticks with nice properties with pH around 4.5-5. Some of manufacturers offer a simple but practical solution – the shampoo, body wash and shaving gel combined in one product, which can be nice among those men who do not like to spend much time on self-grooming but appreciate safe and quality shaving. Modern cosmetic chemistry has answers for those customers that are still fond of classic shaving soaps. A cosmetic chemist can add some “soothing” components in the formulation. These ingredients add the moisturising and glide, while making the whole formulation less aggressive. Some mild surfactants with additional anti irritating properties can be used successfully as well, laureth-9, for instance in the shaving formulations for sensitive or super sensitive skin types. Other components could be chosen from sugar alcohols, modern glycols with a “green” profile and some osmolytes.
Aftershaves These are always leave-on products that will help skin to recover and overcome the negative shaving consequences or even eliminate them in short period of time after the shaving procedure. Quality aftershave ideally should solve the following: ■ Facilitate the skin’s pH recovery to the normal level ■ Eliminate the inevitable water loss that takes place each time after shaving ■ Recover the hydro-lipid mantle of the skin and support the recovery of the bi-lipid structures in the epidermis ■ Reduce the signs of possible inflammation in a form of redness, itching or stinging It can also serve as a product with additional skin care effects – lifting or anti- ageing, for example. These properties are highly expected among younger men. An aftershave is usually a perfumed
or highly perfumed product. We need to remember that any scented product applied after shaving is a potential irritant, that can induce or facilitate the possible irritation. However, unscented formulations are getting popular too. It also may serve as a possible idea of
creating aftershaves for various types of skin – dry, oily, combined, or normal. It requires the correct choice of the form, and in the case of a product which is going to be an emulsion, the correct type of emulsion. Aftershave can be designed in any form – liquid solution, a lotion, or a cream, and even a stick. The recommendation is to avoid those
harsh alcohol-based splashes but does not mean excluding the liquid form. They can be replaced with water-based formulations where the water-soluble emollients along with moisturisers such as trimetylgycine
PERSONAL CARE September 2021
lipids that can become an indispensable aid especially in the top or selective cosmetic lines. Ceramides and phytosterols have already shown high efficacy in therapeutic preparations for the treatment of such conditions as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, etc. The same actives show perfect efficacy when they become a constituent of the cosmetic formulation for male skin care too, especially among those who suffer from dry, sensitive, and irritated skin types. Another newest lipid that has a great
betaine, trehalose, caffeine, some amino acid derivatives, and some active vitamins may play the role of the actives, while the ethanol can be successfully replaced with PPG-10 Butanediol to some extent, which brings a pleasant refreshing and additionally soothing effect.
With regard to emulsions, traditionally, the
o/w emulsions based on multiple emulsifying systems are efficiently used. Meanwhile, modern polyglycerol-based w/o emulsifiers as Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) hydrogenated trilinoleate, open the possibility to create excellent light, often unusual emulsions with pleasant sensorial using the High Internal Phase technology without disadvantages of the classic w/o emulsifiers. The main properties of these emulsifiers are that they leave a tiny film on the skin preventing TEWL and mimic the barrier function of the skin, which is always compromised during shaving. Simultaneously, w/o emulsions as a base for aftershaves can be recommended for those who have dry irritated skin or live in a climate of cold weather and the skin needs additional protection. While exploring new opportunities of
modern w/o emulsions in male skin care, a cosmetic chemist can take an advantage to introduce relatively new biologically active
potential in male skin care products of a “cosmeceutical” level is Palmitamide MEA – the lipid that has been used as a “pearlising” agent in hair care. Now, it can be used in formulations for men as an active component as well as it is a great technical formulating aid when a chemist needs to “gelate” the oil phase in w/o emulsions. As a conclusion, it would be important
to note that all the aspects that we have discussed in this article are also applied in such unique areas as male manscaping and in formulations designed for it.
PC
References 1. Kligman AM. Corneobiology and Corneotherapy – a final chapter. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2011; 33: 197–209
2. Lubberding S, Kruger N, Baran R, Maibach HI. Age-related changes in male skin”. Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology 2017; 377-384
3. Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI 2001. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology 2017; 53-107
4. Rahrovan S, Fanian F, et al. Male versus female skin: What dermatologists and cosmeticians should know. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology 2018; 122-130
5. Elsner P, Maibach HI. Cosmeceuticals. Drugs vs. Cosmetics 2000; 1-9, 189-197
6. Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Mechanical properties of human skin in vivo: A comparative evaluation in 300 men and women, Skin Res Technol 2014; 127-135
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