76 HAIR CARE Untreated A B 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract C Untreated D 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract


Untreated E F


5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract G


Untreated H


5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract


Figure 2: A - Longitudinal image of Straightened Hair, Untreated. Note, the hair strand is split in half and cuticles are not present. B - Longitudinal image of Straightened Hair + 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract. The hair is intact and protected. C - Cross-section image of Straightened Hair, Untreated. The outer edges of cross-section are crumbling and cuticles are flared. D - Cross-section image of Straightened Hair + 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract. The outer edges of cross-section are smooth with clean lines. The cuticles are not flaring. E - Longitudinal image of Straightened + Bleached (40V) Hair, Untreated. The cuticle layer is destroyed due to bleaching. The rigid exterior makes the hair feel rough. F - Longitudinal image of Straightened + Bleached (40V) Hair + 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract. The cuticle layer is smoothed down, making the hair feel soft and healthy. G - Cross-section of Straightened + Bleached (40V) Hair, Untreated. The cuticles on the outer edge are flared up, allowing openings for particles to enter the cortex. Note how the cortex is already cracked. H - Cross-section image of Straightened + Bleached (40V) Hair + 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract. The outer edges are smoothed down, providing a protection layer for the cortex. Note how the cortex remained intact.


adhesive capability and prompt the concept of nature’s glue. Mycelial biomass create and optimise polysaccharide materials to bind physical particles together. Various plants naturally contain polysaccharides that assist with energy production or structural benefits. Mycelium polysaccharides enhance adhesive bonding as well as improve structural elasticity and strength of the materials they bond.11 Harnessing commonalities of nature, mycelium technology transforms hair care for the beauty industry. Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract optimises Lentinus Edodes (Shiitake) mycelium polysaccharides to shield hair strands from thermal damage, while masking visible damage from chemical processes such as bleach. The adhesive properties of mycelium encourage the ability of Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract to attach or fuse to the hair strand and seal the cuticle. Raised hair cuticles result in loss of moisture and opportunities for additional damage to the hair strand. For hair protection, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract smooths the hair cuticles while improving physical and mechanical properties of the hair strand including strength and elasticity. Mycelium technology provides a protective shield, forming a barrier against external aggressors such as pollution and thermal damage while enhancing the visual aesthetic of the overall hair. Utilising nature’s sustainable infrastructure,


Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract optimises attributes of mycelium to shield hair strands from damaging effects of heat and visible damage from chemical processes such as bleaching. Improving strength and elasticity, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract encourages smooth, healthy hair with an environmental conscience. Mycelium shielding technology


PERSONAL CARE January 2021


offers damage control and masking for optimal hair care protection from environmental aggressors or everyday stressors.


Activity demonstrated An ex vivo Hair Pollution Protection Assay assessed the ability of Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract to shield the hair from the oxidative effects of air pollution. Environmental aggressions such as pollutants resulting from exhaust fumes, industrial emissions, and even contaminants from household chores such as cooking and cleaning can have a detrimental effect on hair. Exposure to environmental pollution can result in dry, brittle hair with decreased strength and elasticity. The assay evaluated hair swatches exposed


to cigarette smoke and assessed peroxidation of hair lipids utilising a Malonaldehyde (MDA) Assay. The MDA assay quantitatively measures the end product of lipid peroxidation and determines oxidative stress. An increase in MDA indicates an increase in lipid peroxidation. A generic shampoo and conditioner formulation incorporated 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract to evaluate the active’s ability to reduce lipid peroxidation. Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract demonstrated lower levels of MDA than the untreated hair swatch as well as the hair swatches treated with the control shampoo and conditioner alone. Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract offers effective protection against hair pollution. An ex vivo Scanning Electron Microscopy


study evaluated the ability of Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract to shield virgin hair strands as well as bleached hair strands from thermal damage. Four hair swatches offered various testing parameters including one untreated,


straightened hair swatch, one straightened hair swatch treated with 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract solution, one bleach (40V) untreated hair swatch, and one bleach (40V) hair swatch treated with 5.0% Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract solution. All swatches were spritzed with either water alone or the water and Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract solution before being blown dry and flat ironed at 232°C (450°F) for 25 passes. The blow dry and flat iron process mimics long-term effects of styling the hair. Scanning Electron Microscopy Imaging


(SEM) provides images of chemically treated hair by scanning the hair with a focused beam of electrons. These electrons interact with the atoms of the hair sample to provide longitudinal and cross-section images of the hair’s surface topography and composition. The SEM images depict how stressors such as thermal styling and chemical bleach treatments affect the outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle. The SEM imagery results of the Straightened Untreated Hair samples depict an extensively damaged, split cuticle. The cuticle acts as a protective layer to the fibre. This type of damage leads to irregular growth, breakages, and overall unhealthy or dull hair. The SEM imagery results of the Straightened + Bleached Untreated Hair samples show cracks within the cortex surrounded by crumbling cuticle layers. This type of damage contributes to inevitable loss of moisture and leaves hair strands more prone to breaking and splitting. When the untreated images are compared to


the Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract treated swatches, a significant decrease in damage of the both the cuticle and cortex is exhibited. The Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract treated


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