72 HAIR CARE
activity in a dose-dependent manner, with an equivalent content of gallic acid (reference phenol for the evaluation of the antioxidant content) equal to 0.63 mg/mL. Mycelium Ferment Filtrate proved very
active also for its antinflammatory activity (Griess test, Fig 2), reducing the production of nitric oxide, an endogenous signalling molecule released during the leukocyte inflammatory cascade, by 93% at the concentration of 5 µL/mL.
A structural aid to the hair: the increase in elastin production and the decrease of 5-a reductase activity It is well known that dermis-ageing in humans is characterised by a degeneration in elastin fibre network and by a decrease in elastin production. Elastin is a protein naturally produced within the body and synthetised by fibroblasts of hair dermal papilla too. This is the reason why the activity of
Mycelium Ferment Filtrate was evaluated on the stimulation of the cell cycle and on the total protein synthesis % in human hair dermal papilla fibroblasts. For this purpose, Mycelium Ferment Filtrate was tested in vitro on both non-treated and treated papilla-fibroblasts with human insulin (known as protein synthesis stimulant), in order to evaluate the efficacy on the protein synthesis after 24 and 48h. The obtained results show that Mycelium Ferment Filtrate is able to increase the protein synthesis in human hair dermal papilla fibroblasts with the maximum efficacy (23%) at 10 µg/mL after 48h (Fig 3). Mycelium Ferment Filtrate plays therefore a significant role in stimulating the follicle growth and the early anagen phase. 5α-reductase is the enzyme responsible
for the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). It is well known that the increase in the activity of 5α-reductase leads to a DHT increase and to a consequent hair loss. As discussed above, ganoderic acid is are able to inhibit the 5α-reductase This was the reason why the capacity of Mycelium Ferment Filtrate to inhibit 5α-reductase produced by human keratinocytes by an in vitro test was evaluated. In the test Mycelium Ferment Filtrate was tested at different concentrations, preventively selected by the first MTT test (the cell viability was confirmed at 0.2; 0.1 and 0.05 mg/mL). The dosage of DHT was performed by ELISA test. The quantity of DHT produced cells is proportional to the absorbance at λ= 450nm. The obtained results (Fig 4) showed that
Mycelium Ferment Filtrate is effectively reduced DHT production by 14% at a concentration of 0.2 mg/mL, thus indicating a significant reduction of the enzyme activity.
A goal in trichology: increase the hair in anagen, decreasing those in telogen phase Mycelium Ferment Filtrate was evaluated in vivo by a clinical testing in order to evaluate its cosmetic power to improve hair strength. The test was performed by a dermatologist on 10 female volunteers, aged between 20 and 45 years, and with weak and damaged hair.
PERSONAL CARE January 2021
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
µg/ml RSC %
0 100 2 38 5 17.29 10 21.63 Figure 2: Anti-inflammatory activity (nitric oxide scavenging Griess test).
150 135 120 105 90 75 60 45 30 15 0
CTRL+
Human insulin 100 µg/ml
24h 48h
CTRL- 100
100
Ganother® µg/ml 10
111.34 123.77
100 96.9 95.62
Figure 3: Protein synthesis in hair follicle test. Ganother® protein synthesis stimulation (after 24 and 48h).
A 2% Mycelium Ferment Filtrate-based
hydroalcholic serum was applied twice per day (84 consecutive days), directly on the scalp. During this period hair density (hair number/cm2
) and phototrichogram (% of hair
in telogen and % of hair in anagen phases) were evaluated. As shown in Figure 5, Mycelium Ferment Filtrate acts in a time- dependent manner: at T= 42 days it was noticed a 3% reduction of hair in telogen phase, and a 1% improvement of hair in anagen phase, with an improvement in hair density of 1%. At T=84 days a 20% reduction of hair in
telogen, and a 6% increase of hair in anagen phase was recorded. At the same time, Mycelium Ferment Filtrate proved to be able to increase hair density by 6%.
Conclusion Ganoderma lucidum, also called Reishi, or Mushroom of immortality, is a well-known food supplement with many recognized biological activities. Our work, on the other hand, highlights
for the first time the remarkable cosmetic potential of Reishi and of its bioactive compounds. Ganother is a new cosmetic active obtained from G. lucidum which, enriched with ganoderic acids through an internal industrial procedure, that has been designed and tested for trichocosmetic applications. It is known that the treatments for hair care and health requires a multi-target approach, which mainly takes into account the restoration of the correct physiology of the papilla (i.e. increased production of elastin, contrast to inflammation
www.personalcaremagazine.com 20 35.4
% Proteins synthesis
RSC (%)
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