SKIN MICROBIOME


Investigating the microbiota and beyond


Camille Desperiez, Hélène Muchico – Silab, France


Nature is governed by an indispensable but fragile equilibrium between fauna and flora inhabiting the same space. This interdependence of billions of lives on Earth has maintained a natural order for millennia in spite of the great diversity of species and the complex unicity of each biotope. In ancient Chinese philosophy, Yin-Yang expresses all the concrete dualities of life: a set of opposite and complementing forces in the same universe, controlling the vitality of Nature and paradoxically, forming one and the same unit. As with Earth, the skin is an ecosystem


affected by the symbiosis of relations of various communities inhabiting it, called the microbiota, and the natural mechanisms that ensure its physiological functions. These two parameters strategically keep watch to protect this harmony from all types of internal or external stress that could imperil the delicate balance of the skin. With its unprecedented concept called


Skinbiosis®, Silab offers a deliberate strategy of associating both of these pathways to reach a steady cutaneous balance.


A strategic fusion at the service of skin’s beauty and health Microbiota & biological natural processes Human skin is endowed with a complex and heterogeneous microcosm composed of microorganisms. For a few years, scientists have shown that this microscopic life, called skin microbiota, has a strong influence on the state of skin equilibrium. Currently, science focuses on this topic to determine therapeutic solutions in order to support people suffering from skin disturbances. Specific to each individual, the microbiota is now considered as one of the key elements in skin homeostasis. It evolves on and with a cutaneous environment which is


CAUCASIAN PANEL


continuously changing and which thus allows the skin to autonomously regulate its functioning via biological processes. These mechanisms are taking place at the


heart of the skin to defend, reinforce and regulate this environment submitted to exogenous and endogenous factors. Studies have shown that skin microbiota influences the behaviour of cells below the epidermis1


and these observations


reinforce the idea that interactions do exist to restore the skin homeostasis. Applied to the field of cosmetics and skin


care, the microbiota concept judiciously tends to erase the border between beauty, health and skin comfort. This combination is attracting more and more consumers and its popularity is reinforced in the pandemic context. In the US, 51% of female beauty product buyers associate probiotic ingredients with being healthy.2


Approach of wellbeing Nowadays the approach of “skin harmony” also translates into a holistic vision of cosmetics integrating the relation between skin and mind. According to Kantar, 75% of global consumers say they are likely to buy products or services that will enhance their sense of emotional wellbeing in the next 12 months. Today more than ever, cosmetic products


become influencers of positive moods and participate in the inner equilibrium or wellbeing. Within the global wellness economy, personal care, beauty and anti-ageing take the lion’s share of the market by $1.08 trillion.3 With the pandemic context, the beauty


segment has reinforced its new role as healer, soother and protector. It helps reduce anxiety by offering safe responses to deal with the new constraints imposed and to escape from a stressful daily life by taking care of the skin.


ABSTRACT


Skin balance is a notion which can often be associated with a utopian state of the skin. For a long time, cosmetics have used scientific expertise to erase or reduce the effects of skin imbalances. This year, Silab offers an innovative strategy based on the analysis and regulation of the factors causing these skin disorders. To this end, the company suggests taking into account both the microbiota and the skin biological processes in order to achieve a long- term balance.


Customised solutions for all skin types Silab has established the strategy of proposing duos of active ingredients that act on both the microbiota and natural biological pathways to achieve a stable skin balance for all skin types. Skinbiosis®, whose name results from the fusion of the words “skin” and “symbiosis”, is a concept that sees the microflora and endogenous mechanisms as elements interacting together to achieve skin balance. To deal with the problems of skin


disturbances, Silab has chosen to focus on various skin types and states to meet their specific needs.


Dry skin According to several studies, the worldwide prevalence of dry skin is estimated between 29% and 85%.4


Dryness is the most common clinical Before treatment After treatment


Figure 1: Effect of the Lactobacillus ferment on skin hydration in Caucasian volunteers (**: significant difference/placebo (P < 0.01)).


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manifestation of cutaneous disorders. Dry skin is characterised by the emergence of rough, malnourished and uncomfortable skin that tends to tighten every day. These alterations are mainly due to the weakening of the barrier function linked to a lack of lipids and an increased transepidermal water loss. When it is not related to heredity, this phenomenon can be encouraged by exogenous factors such as cold, sun or harsh detergents. Faced with these various observations, Silab has selected two active ingredients from its portfolio that meet the needs of dry skin by preserving their microflora and compensating for the significant lack of nutrition. The company has taken advantage of the metabolic power of Lactobacillus arizonensis, a specie known for its ability to acclimate easily to extreme drought conditions, by developing


January 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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