TEXTURES
Gel study #2 In order to further understand the structuring properties of Sunflower Wax and of Beeswax, we conducted another series of experiments. We added increasing amounts of Sunflower Wax and Beeswax to three different oil mediums and recorded the resulting product hardness (by cone penetration). The oil mediums were chosen due to their different chemical identities, viscosities, and polarities. Results show Sunflower Wax provides hardness very quickly and effectively in all oils, regardless of type, while the structuring ability of Beeswax depends heavily on the medium it is dissolved in.
Textural characteristics: fine tuning formulations Although hardness and softness are certainly textural descriptors, there are many more details to consider when describing the texture and feel of an anhydrous formulation. Some such signifiers include slip, glide, tack, deposition, uniformity, consistency on skin, after feel, uniformity, etc. On the bench, formulators will use
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combinations of waxes, oils and other cosmetic ingredients to balance the properties of the formulation and achieve the texture profile and sensory characteristics desired. Table 1 provides guidance for what levels and combinations can be used to achieve different textures in anhydrous formulations. In general, transparent fluid formulas will not require any structurants. The recommended
VISCOSITY BUILDING PROPERTIES OF WAXES 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000
0 1 2 3 % Wax in Emulsion Figure 3: Viscosity building properties of waxes.
levels for all waxes when formulating semi- solids and soft solids are very wide because of the wide range of textures possible, however, high levels of plasticiser are crucial to stable soft textures. As the hardness of the formula increases, so do the levels of structuring waxes (individually or combined), while plasticisers will need to be lowered to minimum requirements for the system.
Formulating with waxes in emulsion systems Natural waxes are lipophilic materials Sunflower Wax and Orange Peel Wax, as well as the starting materials that make up Kester Wax K-24 and Kester Wax K-60P are biosynthesised by specialised plant cells to become the outermost boundary of the cuticular membrane (the interface between
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Beeswax ■ Kester Wax K-24 ■
Kester Wax K-60P ■ Orange Peel Wax ■
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
January 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Emulsion Viscosity (cPs)
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