ANALYSIS


of the coronavirus, consumer spending in the personal care segment has remained unaffected. China stands at a strong position in the world for its personal care market. This makes the Chinese personal care market challenging to penetrate. “Several top cosmetic companies such as


Revlon couldn’t bear the brunt of the competition and had to exit out of the country. Hence, it is essential to understand consumer preference and buying behaviour. In China, brand loyalty is low. However, the preference for the unique and novel product is high. Chinese consumers like to experiment with newer products and local products. Localisation of brands could be a crucial strategy to make a position in the thriving Chinese personal care market.”


Singapore Terms such as ‘clean beauty’, ‘water-free’ and ‘skin microbiome’ have made waves among industry professionals, but there have been indications that consumers have been slower to become as interested, and this situation is more evident in some regions, especially in Asia where consumers are more interested in labels that suggest that a beauty product is safe. According to Singapore’s Daily Vanity Beauty


Consumer Survey 2020, consumers are more likely to purchase beauty products with labels that indicate that they have been tested by dermatologists, are paraben-free, and are tested on sensitive skin. “It is interesting that while the cosmetic


industry is abuzz with discussion about clean beauty and microbiome technology, the day-to- day consumer doesn’t seem to be as caught up with these buzzwords,” said Kristen Juliet Soh, co-founder and COO of Daily Vanity. “Consumers are still largely ‘defensive’ when


it comes to reading labels, preferring to go for products that are perceived to be trusted by professionals or are unlikely to have a negative impact on their skin.” “At the same time, while new technology such


as microbiome skin care opens up interesting opportunities for the industry, consumers have yet to have caught up with the trend. This lack of awareness makes them uninterested in products that carry labels that suggest a product uses microbiome technology.” Within the industry, we have grasped with


both hands opportunities to associate products with the skin’s microbiome, but this research certainly indicates that there is still much more to be done in terms of educating consumer bases around the world about its benefits.


Japan Japan has been a major influence on the global cosmetics industry for many years, with an innovative and technology-focused approach to product development. In 2020, Japan also hosted the pandemic-affected IFSCC Congress, which was held in Yokohama, but accessible to attendees around the world via the internet. Personal Care spoke to Masato Yoshioka, President, Federation of Japanese Cosmetic Ingredients Associations, to help get a better understanding of where the Japanese cosmetic industry is heading and discover more about plans for their next event, CITE.


www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2021 PERSONAL CARE


PERSONAL CARE: What drives the innovative approach to cosmetics in Japan - and do you see this continuing? MASATO YOSHIOKA: I think the biggest factor is that there are many experts who are well-versed in a wide range of basic sciences compared to other countries, and that they effectively conduct basic research from the viewpoint of their respective fields of expertise, as well as collaboration that transcends the boundaries between industry, government, and academia. I believe that the cosmetic industry, which is an important element in creating added value through research results, is a field that will continue to grow in the future.


PC: What area of new technology appears to be proving most successful in the Japanese cosmetics industry currently? MY: Considering the awards won by Japanese companies at the IFSCC Congress in recent years, I feel that “visualisation research” and “anti-ageing research” are major trends. For the former, 3D visualisation of skin architecture has become common. Each company is now considering how to create the next benefits. As for the latter, I believe that the “anti-wrinkle product competition”, which began in 2017, will become increasingly active in the future.


PC: Understandably, the recent IFSCC Congress in Yokohama was disrupted by global pandemic. Were you pleased with the outcome of the virtual event? MY: I think many people in the cosmetic industry were concerned about the operation of the IFSCC Congress during this pandemic. I also appreciate the support and cooperation given by everyone involved. Despite being the first virtual congress, 1,555 participants registered and 156,508 page views shows that unexpectedly many participants joined the event. The content of the presentations was also of high quality, making us very satisfied with the results. In addition, I sincerely appreciate so many people visited the website from all over the world.


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Masato Yoshioka


PC: How has the beauty industry as a whole dealt with the crisis? MY: There are items in the beauty industry that have partially declined in demand (in this global pandemic), but on the contrary, there are items for which demand has grown, and I think that each company is trying to deal with them by changing the distribution of resources.


PC: Do you believe there will be a long- term impact in the way cosmetics are used/ developed? MY: During this global pandemic, new lifestyles are being established. It is primarily to ensure social distances, and to promote the constant wearing of masks. We have also been experiencing lifestyles in each of the four seasons due to the prolonged pandemic. In the future, if new ways of using cosmetics and personal care products become established for users, there is a good possibility that there will be a long-term impact on the assortment of items, etc.


PC: Looking further into the future, what do you imagine will be the most important driver in cosmetic new product development? MY: In the future, I believe that all types of digital tools using technology which combines the results obtained from a wide range of basic science fields with the benefits of actual use, will be the driving force for creating the largest innovation for the cosmetic industry as well.


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