SKIN MICROBIOME
ingredients stimulates the reinforcement of cutaneous barrier functions and the improvement of the tolerance threshold of sensitive skin exposed to cold, chemical stress or pollution. Indufence® is rich in peptides purified from
the rhizomes of waterplantain. It acts as a probiotic, reinforcing the overall barrier function of the epidermis: it increases the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis by restoring the membrane network of tight junctions (ZO-1) altered by chemical or microbial aggression and thus restructures the mechanical barrier of the skin. In addition, it stimulates innate immunity receptors TLR2 (+148%, P < 0.05) (Fig 5) to promote the production of antimicrobial molecules hBD2 (+128%, P < 0.05) while modulating the inflammatory response. Neurofense® is a bio-inspired soothing
concentrate obtained from the roots of red sage, a Chinese medicinal plant very resistant to cold. Through its transversal action on the three pillars of biological components involved in skin sensitivity, this eco-designed active neutralises neuronal hyper-reactivity, activates the CBD2 receptor, limits inflammation of the skin and restores the quality of the skin barrier.
Irritated scalp Faced with certain external and/or environmental aggressions that it undergoes on a daily basis, the scalp can lose its natural balance. Dandruff is the result of excessive scalp desquamation associated with abnormal colonisation of the fungus Malassezia furfur, too rapid multiplication of epidermal cells and their abnormal maturation. A French epidemiological study has shown the frequency of this phenomenon. Tugging, painful hair roots, irritation and itching affect more than 40% of respondents and all age categories. Although women are more affected (47%), a large proportion of men is also impacted (41%). Many factors cause these unpleasant sensations: pollution, cold, heat, dry and humid air, water or unsuitable hair care products.11
Following an in-depth analysis
of these disturbances, the French supplier offers two natural ingredients allowing to form a protective and anti-irritant barrier for the irritated scalp. Adandrine® is an active obtained from
pomegranate co-product. It controls microbial proliferation by inhibiting the growth of Malassezia furfur, restores the balance of the epidermal differentiation process (Fig 6) by stimulating the synthesis of involucrin. It allows complete maturation of the stratum corneum, greatly improves the state of barrier function and soothes the scalp. Capicalm®, an anti-irritant agent rich
in glycans of fumitory flower, reduces the inflammatory reaction by limiting the release of the main inflammatory factors (NF-ĸB, PGE2) and thus protects against external stresses by calming irritations and itching. It is a real ally to guarantee protection and comfort to weakened scalps.
Conclusion Today, the topic of the microbiota is an intriguing subject that still retains a part of mystery to be elucidated. The cutaneous
www.personalcaremagazine.com Before treatment After 28 days of treatment
Figure 6: Photos of D-Squames® obtained before and after treatment with the active obtained from pomegranate co-product, formulated at 4% in a lotion.
January 2021 PERSONAL CARE 2.5% Dermapur® HP 0
-40 -80
-120 -60.6 -58 -81.6 -92
S.aureus■ P. acnes■ Figure 4: Effect of the meadowsweet product on the proliferation of S. aureus and P. acnes.
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
140* 138* 116* 100 5.0% Dermapur® HP
45
Control
0.5% Indufence®
1% Indufence®
S. epidermis
Figure 5: Effect of the waterplantain active on the expression of TLR2 by normal human keratinocytes.
microflora and its diversity are essential when addressing the subject of skin equilibrium because it participates directly in controlling it. Going further, the definition of “balanced skin” can be extended to a more global and strategic vision by integrating the concept of regulation of the natural skin functioning processes. Thanks to its scientific expertise and its
knowledge of the skin and its ecosystem, Silab combines natural and safe active ingredients to design Skinbiosis®. This innovative approach offers the possibility of developing personalised, more in-depth cosmetic responses to ensure health and wellbeing of all skin types. Once again, Silab demonstrates its commitment to care for cosmetic users.
References 1 Nakatsuji T, Chiang HI, Jiang SB, Nagarajan H, Zengler K, Gallo RL. The microbiome extends to subepidermal compartments of normal skin. Nat Commun. 2013; 4: 1431.
2 Lightspeed/Mintel, 925 female internet users aged 18+ who use beauty products
3 Global Wellness Institute 4 Mekić S, Jacobs LC, Gunn DA, Mayes AE, Ikram MA, Pardo LM, Nijsten T. Prevalence and
Presence of dandruff ++
determinants for xerosis cutis in the middle- aged and elderly population : A cross-sectional study. J Am Acad Dermatol 2019; 81(4):963-969
5 Furst P. The role of amino acids and synthetic dipeptides. Clinical Nutrition 2003; 23-28
6 Zhang S, Duan E. Fighting against Skin Aging: the way from Bench to Bedside. Cell Transplant 2018; 27(5), 729-738
7 Braff MH, Bardan A, Nizet V, Gallo RL. Cutaneous defense mechanisms by antimicrobial peptides. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2005; 124: 2, 394-400
8 Misery L, Ständer S, Szepietowski J, et al. Definition of Sensitive Skin: An Expert Position Paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch, Acta Dermato Venereologica 2014; 97
9 Berardesca E, Farage M, Maibach H. Sensitive skin : an overview,International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2012; 35: 2-8
10 Farage MA, Mabach HI. Sensitive skin : closing in on a physiological cause. Contact Dermatitis 2010; 62(3): 137-49
11 Misery L, Sibaud V, Ambronati M, Macy G, Boussetta S, Taleb C. Sensitive scalp : does this condition exist ? An epidemiological study. Contact Dermatitis 2008; 58: 234 – 238 PC
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Presence of dandruff
TLR2 expression (%)
inhibition of bacterial growth (%)
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