44 SKIN MICROBIOME
Lactobiotyl®. According to a biomimetic approach, the strain was fed in-house with an extract of jojoba in order to reproduce its natural environment and encourage the production of metabolites ensuring its survival and adaptation. The resulting postbiotic active ingredient respects the balance of the microbiota of dry skin, strengthens the integrity of the skin barrier by stimulating markers of cohesion as well as protein and lipid structures, and activates epidermal renewal. After 28 days of twice daily application in Caucasian and Asian volunteers, this Lactobacillus ferment, significantly increases skin hydration (+16.2%, P < 0.01) (Fig 1) and complexion radiance (Fig 2).
The challenge of nutrition cannot only be
the supply of nutrients but their bioavailability. Proteins in the form of small peptides are more quickly absorbed and assimilated than polymeric peptides or amino acids.5
Composed of di- and
tripeptides of rice, Nutripeptides® protects the skin from nutritional deficiencies. It promotes the formation of functional epidermis and dermis in a deficient environment and activates the defence mechanisms against stress. After 14 days of twice daily application and after repeated aggressions by an irritant surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate), this natural active ingredient reduces transepidermal water loss in comparison to the placebo.
Mature skin Mature skin exhibits specific physiological and physical characteristics: loss of volume and elasticity, appearance of wrinkles and lack of radiance.6
In recent years, the concept of anti-
ageing has undergone a real transformation. For a long time associated with the concept of reversibility, ageing phenomenon is now based on an innovative perception: the “ageing well” of both body and mind. This philosophy aims to better anticipate the physical changes and to reinforce a positive outlook while ageing. The company has selected a combination of active ingredients to rebalance the microbiota of mature skin and awaken its natural beauty by improving skin parameters associated with ageing well (hydration, firmness, radiance of the complexion, and reduction of wrinkles). Silab has been and continues to be a front-
runner in comparative analyses of the cutaneous microbiotas of young and mature skin using metasequencing. These research works have shown that the composition of the microbiota of mature skin changes over time. Ecobiotys® is an active ingredient bio-inspired by the regulating power of the microbiota of the nectar of flowers,
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D0 D0
the Nectarobiota®. Obtained from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii, isolated from the nectar of the porcelain flowerHoya carnosa, this natural active ingredient from biotechnological origin specifically re-equilibrates the microbiota of mature skin by acting on the distribution of bacterial communities and by reinforcing the immune and mechanical barriers of the skin. The microbiota profile of mature skin returns to that of young skin. For the first time in the universe of cosmetics,
the French company has mapped in vivo the cutaneous parameters involved in ageing well and then modelled in vitro the genetic and functional profile of poorly ageing cells and tissues. Sourced from a traceable supply from the Rose Valley in Bulgaria, Wellagyl® is a natural active ingredient rich in oligosaccharides that activates the biological pathways involved in the treatment of the effects of ageing through the well-ageing concept. After 56 days of twice daily application, the panel having used this active ingredient moved towards that of subjects ageing well, whereas the placebo panel retained the features of volunteers ageing poorly (Fig 3).
Blemished skin Although the word “blemish” is general, it is often used to describe the problems encountered in oily skin: shine, blackheads and visible pores. To go even further, this term is used by cosmetic brands to approach the subject of acne. This pathology is influenced by various factors such as disruption of the skin’s environment, poor regulation of the desquamation process or hyperseborrhea which unbalance the skin and encourage the proliferation of cutaneous saprophytic microorganisms or contamination by pathogens. Anti-blemished cosmetic products can be considered as solutions accompanying
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Figure 3: Projection of placebo and the Rosa damascena active panels on D0 and D56 in a PCA model previously constructed on “ageing well” and “ageing poorly”.
PERSONAL CARE January 2021
Ageing well
Wellagyl® Placebo D56 D0
acne treatments whose goal is to control and act on the existing acne lesions, prevent the reappearance of imperfections and limit the duration of the skin disorder. Silab’s strategy is based on the stimulating the cutaneous endogenous defences and regulating the desquamation process. The skin produces natural antibiotics that
allow it to maintain the balance of its resident flora and to fight against microbial invasion.7 When this ecosystem is disturbed, it appears necessary to stimulate the endogenous skin defences. Dermapur® HP extracted from meadowsweet is rich in phenolic acids known for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It preserves the cutaneous ecosystem by stimulating the endogenous synthesis of antimicrobial peptides: the cathelicidins. It reduces bacterial proliferation (S. aureus: -81.6%, P. acnes: -92%) (Fig 4) and sebaceous secretion, limits inflammatory lesions (-20%, P < 0.05) and improves the uniformity of skin grain (+21%, P < 0.05). From a local, traceable and secure supply chain, the chestnut has been specifically selected for its unique pectin biopolymers, responsible for cellular cohesion within the plant walls. By boosting cellular energy production and activating PADs, key enzymes in the metabolism of filaggrin, the eco-designed active ingredient Recoverine®, promotes epidermal homeostasis by activating the desquamation process (+82%, P < 0.05) to establish a robust and functional barrier function.
Sensitive skin The experts of the International forum for the study of itch (IFSI) describe sensitive skin as “a syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling sensations) in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke such sensations. These unpleasant sensations cannot be explained by lesions attributable to any skin disease. The skin can appear normal or be accompanied by erythema. Sensitive skin can affect all body locations, especially the face.”8 Today around 70% of the population claim to have the characteristics of sensitive skin and researchers have found that this physiological phenomenon is common in polluted cities.9,10 Two barriers act in a coordinated manner and condition the skin’s first line of defence: the mechanical barrier and the biological immune barrier. The combination of Silab’s natural active
www.personalcaremagazine.com ASIAN PANEL
Before treatment
After treatment Figure 2: Effect of the Lactobacillus ferment on complexion radiance in Asian volunteers.
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