54 TEXTURES
Ingredients focus: enhancing textures
Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
Texture is a hugely important aspect of our industry, delivering points of difference and that sense of indulgence critical for many formulations. In addition, the texture increases efficacy for many types of formulation, no more so than in sun care where the coverage ensures correct application and therefore protecting the skin from harmful rays. Following is a selection of the latest
technology from ingredient suppliers giving formulators the opportunity to develop products with enhanced textures and sensory profiles.
Texture ingredients for skin Ashland has launched ‘dreamy textures’, a collection of four nature-derived formulations with novel textures, as research shows that consumers are seeking to lower stress levels with at-home pampering sessions. The formulations feature natrosol plus
330 CS and polysurf 67 CS HMHEC, which are nature-derived rheology modifiers that offer efficient thickening, improve emulsion stability, and enable novel, playful textures. New lubrajel oil PF hydrogel (a nature- derived, biodegradable moisturiser that provides lubricity and a light, dimethicone like feel in a preservative free hydrogel) adds sensory enhancement to the collection. The final ingredient is a recent Ashland launch, nightessence biofunctional, which is a natural extract from premium true lavender working to renew and illuminate the skin while you sleep.
The four dreamy texture formulations
include: Beauty sleep gel cream: a is a delightfully luxurious and fresh, quick vanishing texture; Counting sheep butter-in-gel is an innovative texture with a unique appearance that transforms into a smooth cream and melts on the skin upon application. Resetting lunar mask is a novel cream texture that resets to a smooth surface after each use and leaves a velvety soft skin feel. Dreamy renewing butter a deliciously rich, buttery texture that melts on contact with skin leaving a powdery, velvety finish. As formulators seek raw materials with
a perfect combination of natural feel and human skin softness, natural silicones are creating more possibilities. Hunan Silok Silicone has invested a lot in the R&D of their
PERSONAL CARE January 2021 Ashland.
natural series of products. The latest result of this is the modified silicone oil SiCare-2802. In the development of a new product,
formulators need to strictly control the compatibility of various ingredients to ensure the stability of the formulation. The variable compatibility of different kinds of oil can greatly limit the scope of material under consideration. Formulators must also consider the final skin affinity and texture of the product. Modified from the meadowfoam seed
oil extracted from the seeds of Limnanthes alba, SiCare-2802 is compatible with most
oils, offering more formulation possibilities. Meadowfoam seed oil is one of the most stable vegetable oils in the world, primarily because it contains over 98% long chain fatty acids. Combining meadowfoam seed oil with siloxane, a multi-functional effective ingredient, SiCare-2802 endows products with a softer and more silky skin- feel, conditioning and moisturising effects. Products conditioned by SiCare-2802 also show good performance in the dissolving and removal of makeup, relieving skin dryness after makeup removal and cleansing. Furthermore, the extensive compatibility
with oils makes it stable and a “win-win” with other materials in all kinds of cosmetics formulas. This efficacy received recent recognition with an award in Personal Care & Cosmetics category at the 2018 Ringier Technology Innovation Awards. Essential oil when combined with
SiCare-2802 is much softer and more moisturising. It is refreshing, breathable and non-greasy, in line with consumer psychology. KahlWax has released a new natural fruit
wax derived from the peel of oranges. The raw material is paired with berry wax, another natural fruit wax, to create a product that combines skin care with texture-enhancing and stabilising properties. The resulting KahlWax 6698 Orange is
a versatile cosmetic raw material with a distinctive citrus scent, which is suitable for
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