62 TEXTURES


Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Kester Wax K-60P): creamy textures Polyhydroxystearic acid is a polyester wax produced from renewable plant materials. Its chemistry consists of multiple repeating units with ester functional groups. Saturated polyesters are excellent plasticisers that impart flexibility and softness to harder, more brittle waxes and polymers. In personal care, Kester Wax K-60P is used for its plasticising, film-forming, pigment wetting and viscosity modifying properties. It is an excellent choice in cosmetic sticks, as its plasticising properties add a creamy feeling and prevent issues including: sweating, brittleness, and grain formation. In emulsions it can build formula viscosity and leave a rich heavy feeling on the skin, without clogging pores (3rd party tested). It can also be a vegan alternative to beeswax.


Lauryl Laurate (Kester Wax K-24): Instant melt ester


Lauryl laurate is a mono-ester produced from renewable plant derived materials, with a very simple chemistry. In general, alkyl esters are hydrophobic materials with large molecular weight/chain length ranges, safe for use in cosmetics.10


SUNFLOWER WAX AND BEESWAX GELS. EFFECT OF MEDIUM. 0


50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400


0 Figure 2: Gel study #2. The low molecular weight and low


melt point characteristic of lauryl laurate make its sensory profile more consistent with that of a liquid. In personal care, Kester Wax K-24 is


mainly used for its emollient properties and dry, silky after-feel. It is an excellent choice when adding slip and glide to stick products without compromising structure, including pencils, lipsticks, and sunscreen sticks. In face and body care, it promotes light feeling, low viscosity emulsions (serums and creams). It is also non-comedogenic and non-irritant (3rd party tested).


Orange Peel Wax: upcycled botanical emollient Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Wax is a by- product from the production of orange essential oil and orange juice. The wax portion is obtained by steam distillation of the orange fruit peels, and later processed through physical methods only, like absorbents and filtration. The deodorisation process removes all terpenes and most of the essential oil components.11


TABLE 1: WAX LEVELS AND COMBINATIONS Hardness/Texture Profile


Flowable Liquid (Transparent)


Flowable Liquid with some Viscosity


Semi-Solid (Pumpable) Soft Solids (Scoopable) Solids


Hard Solids (Unique Systems) Function in Formulas 0


0-5 0-5


5-10 >10


Increasing melt


point and thermal stability, strong gelling agent


Sensory Descriptors Associated Firm and hard, high slip


Structuring, film forming, plasticizing


Firm but creamy, good payout


% Sunflower Wax 0


The chemical composition of Orange Peel


Wax is quite complex and different from other traditional waxes, consisting of approximately 50% unsaturated monoesters of unsaturated fatty acids and long-chain alcohols.12 In personal care, Orange Peel Wax is safe


to use in all applications (non photo-toxic, 3rd party tested), with most applications being as an emollient, texture modifier, and a natural colorant and fragrance. It can also be used as an alternative to anhydrous lanolin, or as its vegan replacement.


Formulating with waxes in anhydrous systems The importance of gel hardness Traditionally, waxes are used in cosmetics to thicken and structure oils by building stable gel networks. When certain waxes are heated above their melt point and combined with a suitable solvent (cosmetic esters including vegetable oils, paraffin oils, silicones, etc.) and then cooled to room temperature the resulting product is called an organogel. In these gels,


% Beeswax 0


1-5


0-10 5-15


10-15 >20


% Kester Wax K-60P < 5


0-10 0-15


5-20 3-7 2-5


Plasticizing, stabilizing, correcting


incompatibilities


Soft and creamy, high pick-up /


payout, some tack PERSONAL CARE January 2021


the wax molecules are solvated by the liquid portion of the gel; upon cooling they self- assemble into a three-dimensional network where the liquid is entrapped within.13


Many


waxes thicken and structure oils in this manner and extensive data shows that gel hardness is proportional to percentage of wax. However, there are many nuances and exceptions. Some waxes do not thicken at all.


Gel study #1 In a series of experiments, we added increasing amounts of five different waxes to a simple lip balm base and recorded the resulting product hardness (by cone penetration). From Figure 1, we see how efficiently sunflower


wax produces hard gels, while beeswax builds structure at a slower rate. This phenomenon is due to the natural plasticisers present in beeswax, which promote a more moderate structure with a creamier feel. The addition of Kester Wax K-24 had no effect on the formula hardness, while Kester Wax K-60P and Orange Peel Wax softened the stick.


% Kester Wax K-24 < 40


<50 QS


QS QS QS


Emollience, slip, glide, dry


non-greasy feel


Glossy, slippery, non-greasy and dry


Colour, odor


% Orange Peel Wax < 30


<50 QS


QS QS QS


Emollience, claims


Texture Categories Fluids, Sprays


Fluids, Drops, Oils Gels, Jellies


Balms, Butters Pastes Bars, Sticks


Pencils, Waxes 5 10 % Wax added to base


Sunflower Wax + Castor Oil ■ Sunflower Wax + C12-15 ■


SFW + Isopropyl Palmitate ■ Beeswax + Castor Oil ■


Beeswax + C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate ■ Beeswax + Isopropyl Palmitate ■


15 20


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Cone Penetration (dmm)


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