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SKIN MICROBIOME


Addressing sensitive skin and the microbiome


Òscar Expósito, Alejandro Guirado, Daniel Robustillo, Raúl Vallecillo, Ana Gallego, María Mas, Pau Riera, Daniel Luna, Sara Laplana, Tarik Ruiz, Sandra Ruiz – Vytrus Biotech, Spain


The current global health crisis has impacted all sectors and cosmetics is no exception. The COVID-19 pandemic has led to a change in trends and different consumption levels worldwide. One of the practices that has come into force is the use of hand sanitisers as a protection against coronavirus. However, the constant use of this type of alcohol-based product may cause dryness and irritation of the skin.1,2


They


may potentially be harmful to our skin health, which is the main defence layer of our body. They could be harmful to our skin’s natural hydration barrier, and especially to those who suffer from sensitive skin. Vytrus Biotech propose a new skin treatment based on plant stem cells, with a great moisturising potential, which acts as a soother and protector of sensitive skin.


Plant stem cells for sensitive skin The active ingredient Sensia Carota calms and protects sensitive skin through a 360˚ mechanism of action (Fig 1): ■ Lipid replenishment ■ Inhibition of Neurogenic Inflammation ■ Inhibition of inflammation caused by unbalanced microbiota ■ Antioxidant activity ■ Restoring the wellbeing of epidermal cells


The active ingredient shows a variety of statements that prove its composition and safe and respectful application: ■ 100% natural origin, according to ISO 16128 ■ COSMOS-approved ■ Preservative-free ■ Microbiome compatible


Based on Daucus carota plant stem cells, mainly known as carrot, Sensia Carota targets the silent inflammation by calming the irritated skin. The unique composition of the active ingredient efficiently increases the tolerance of sensitive skin against chemical aggressions, in a natural and safe way, on two levels: ■ Acts on secondary mediators to skin hypersensitivity thanks to its high concentration in plant cell factors ■ Strengthens the primary skin natural protection due to its composition rich in essential fatty acids


In vitro efficacy In vitro 1: Anti-inflammatory effect: reduction of TNF-α y IL-8 In the first assay, there was a significant reduction of up to 29% and 65% of TNF-α and IL-8 on the cell culture induced by LPS (bacterial insult). The active ingredient showed a great capacity to


reduce the response of these two significant pro- inflammatory markers, demonstrating the ability to reduce an excessive inflammatory response.


In vitro 2: inhibition of neurogenic inflammation The results of this second test at cellular level showed up to a 39% reduction in the release of the neuropeptide CGRP (a peptide related to calcitonin gene) in a sensory neuron culture after 24h pre-treatment, even higher than Capsazepine (-30%). The release of CGRP is linked to the activation


of an inflammatory activity and linked to activations of bacterial virulence. The active ingredient can modulate the release of CGRP in sensory neurons, avoiding the activation of pro- inflammatory pathways and the imbalance of the microbiota.


In vitro 3: Restoring epidermal cells wellbeing This third test was carried out in epidermal progenitor cells and demonstrated the ability of the active ingredient to increase the generation of β-Endorphins, closely linked to cellular wellbeing and skin homeostasis. In the assay, it was demonstrated up to


101% β-Endorphin release after induction of inflammation with IL-1α at even higher level than the control Capsazepine (63%).


Sensia Carota Environment Microbiota Layer Epidermis Dermis


CGRP B-Endorphin


Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Sensia Carota. www.personalcaremagazine.com


CGRP B-Endorphin


In vitro 4: Skin microbiota compatibility This new test evaluates the compatibility of an active ingredient with the skin microbiota. A bacterial co-culture was studied both in the presence and the absence of the active ingredient. In order to verify that the viability and diversity of the microbial community were both maintained, a series of microorganisms were analysed: S. aureus, C. acnes, S. mitis, S. capitis, S. epidermidis, Corynebacterium sp., Streptococcus sp., and M. pachydermatis. The plant-based active ingredient was shown to fulfil two main functions: maintaining the viability and microbial diversity of the skin and providing protection against pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus, reaching the maximum score of 1 in skin microbiota compatibility test. This result related to Staphylococcus aureus is of high importance, as this bacteria is especially harmful for the sensitive skin.


In vivo efficacy In vivo 1: Evaluation of erythema prevention The 15-volunteer panel test at 1% dosage


January 2021 PERSONAL CARE


47


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