26 ANALYSIS
PC: Could you give me an insight into the theme of the 2021 CITE event? MY: The cosmetic industry consists of technologies spanning a variety of fields. Therefore, CITE Japan has not limited each event to one particular theme, but since the 2011 event, the main theme that represents the philosophy of CITE Japan has been “Next Step for Cosmetic Ingredients & Technology”. I am confident that the exhibition has
become an event where the participants can feel that various cosmetics-related technologies have been steadily improved every time they attend.
PC: This is the 10th anniversary of CITE. How has it changed and grown over this period? MY: In 2003, the first CITE Japan was held with 120 exhibitors and 9,475 visitors. Each time the number of exhibitors and visitors has continued to grow on an average of 10%, reaching 312 exhibitors and 17,556 visitors at the 2019 event. Both the numbers of exhibitors and visitors from countries and regions other than Japan has also continued to grow. In 2017, the numbers of overseas participants reached 10% of exhibitors and 5% of visitors meeting the international standards of the International Federation of Exhibitions (UFI: Union des Foires Internationales). In other words, CITE Japan has transformed and grown from a local exhibition in Japan to a global international exhibition.
Formulating J-Beauty-inspired products Personal Care spoke to Charlotte Stricane, senior application development manager at Clariant Active Ingredients, to learn more about the company’s recent work on J-Beauty formulations.
PC: If you could sum up in a couple of sentences how the Japanese approach to cosmetics and personal care differs from most other markets, what would it be? CHARLOTTE STRICANE: Japanese Beauty, rooted in centuries-old traditions of skin and hair care beauty regimes, is known to have a preventative approach to skin issues instead of treating the consequences of time and environment. The quest for excellence, trusted ingredients and light sensorial attributes are the main characteristics of what is globally recognised as Japanese Beauty. Across the beauty market, these elements
are used by Japanese brands to create high end formulations, with outstanding sensory profiles, well-known ingredients and substantiated claims.
PC: Some of the aspects of J-Beauty seem to merge into other current trends such as ‘minimal ingredients’. Does this make ingredients that offer multifunctional benefits more important at the moment? CS: This is why Clariant Active Ingredients chose to focus on J-Beauty. As it is built with simplicity, elegance and efficacy at its core, it was meant to meet the current market needs on a global level, including a minimalistic approach to ingredients without compromising on quality or on safety. Multifunctionality is therefore essential.
PERSONAL CARE January 2021
PC: What types of claims are most common in J-Beauty products and which ingredients can help with these claims? CS: Preventing age signs to settle is one of the major claims in J-Beauty. This can be achieved with the replenishing powers of Rootness Energize. This sustainable active helps the skin to be full of energy to power through the day. Derived from the roots of Luffa cylindrica, this extract is 10 times more concentrated in rare bryonolic acid than roots of plants from traditional culture thanks to a patented technology called “Plant Milking”, allowing a sustainable access to potent molecules while preserving the plant’s life cycle. Clinical studies have demonstrated an increase in firmness, tonicity and elasticity when compared to placebo. Preventing irritation is another key claim
It encompasses several dimensions as well: providing complementary claims, sourced with sustainability in mind, and enhanced formulation compatibility are only a few examples.
PC: ‘Zen’ is a much-needed concept in the current climate, how can formulators introduce it into their products? CS: Studying Japanese Zen philosophy and traditional Japanese design, one key principle came to light: Wabi-Sabi, or the “wisdom in natural simplicity”. Applied in every aspect of Japanese life, it is emphasising simple, streamlined shapes, functional items, elegance and timeless style. Zen is more than a concept; it becomes a
part of the chosen lifestyle. Formulators have a selection of solutions to use and combine to include more “Zenspiration” in their formulations: redefining beauty consumers habits by reinventing formats, using powerful ingredients inspired by nature or creating new multifunctional essentials.
PC: How important is texture when achieving an authentic J-Beauty formulation? CS: The answer is: Very! The texture is what drives the “buy again” decision coupled with a good efficacy and the right positioning. With demanding weather and time spent mainly indoors, skin must feel hydrated yet look even and feel very silky to achieve the perfect complexion.
of J-Beauty. Equiscalp was shown to help rebalancing sebum production while being mild to the scalp’s microbiota. Derived from Fuji Apple stem cells cultivated from a very small part of the fruit, this ingredient is also mild to the environment. Eosidin, extracted from the peel of unripe
tangerines otherwise discarded from the food industry, comforts sensitive scalps by quenching the irritation and the itchiness, while reinforcing the skin barrier. Last but not least: perfect complexion.
Alpha-Melight is a natural bisabolol extracted from the bark of the Candeia tree found across South America. As a pioneering tree species able to quickly populate grasslands, its extract is known to reduce skin irritation. Knowing irritation can lead to hyperpigmentation, Alpha-Melight was shown to have clinically proven lightening effects, perfecting skin’s healthy glow.
PC: What key aspects of J-Beauty does your Zenspiration concept cover? CS: Clariant Active Ingredients J-Beauty inspired formulation concept is called “Zenspiration” because strong notions started to emerge as the study of the meaning of “Wabi-Sabi” advanced. Awarded with a silver medal by the BSB Innovation committee in April 2020 in the “Applied Concept” category, it illustrates three key principles of Japanese aesthetic codes with elegant yet simple formulations. Aiming at inspiring customers around strongly substantiated natural ingredients and premium sensorial properties, Zenspiration formulations were also built around practical formats, trusted ingredients and light sensorial attributes.
Charlotte Stricane
Conclusion It is impossible to truly convey the whole story of this great continent in one article, but we have tried at least to capture the essence and show where Asian beauty and personal care market is heading. The focus on innovation, both in terms of digital technology and traditional ingredient formulation shows no sign of abating and it is fair to say, this incredible, exciting and diverse continent will remain where trend hunters look to see what the global personal care industry will look like in the future.
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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