34 IFSCC CONGRESS
The organisers of the Congress emphasised that this work is purely based on science and not related to any cosmetic research. Dr Ohsumi opened by describing
autophagy as a fundamental process for degrading and recycling cellular components and illustrated the dynamic protein process in our body. People make 9kg of protein each day. Dr Ohsumi said that life itself is maintained as an equilibrium state between synthesis and degradation of proteins, replacing most proteins every three months. This recycling process is essential for life. Dr Ohsumi then presented some history
of his work on autophagy, explaining that the term – meaning “self” “eating” was coined in 1962. Yeast is a tiny unicellular organism and a good model for molecular biology with a huge scientific research database. He began studying the yeast vacuole to see if it had a function beyond a “garbage dump” and in 1988 there was a turning point while he was working at Tokyo University on the lytic function of the yeast vacuole, where he discovered interesting phenomena in the accumulation of autophagic bodies. Dr Ohsumi shared the results of
microscopic analyses which detailed the autophagic process in these yeast cells and discussed the 18 ATG genes essential for yeast autophagy. These are a set of gene encoding machinery essential for the unique membrane dynamics for the formation of autophagosomes. In conclusion, Dr Ohsumi said that they are still in the early stages of autophagy research, but it is clear that autophagy has an influence on many disparate areas of life – from cancer to the beauty industry. For continued development in this area, it is important to further establish quantification methods and in vivo detection.
Henry Maso Award Lecture The Henry Maso Award is presented at IFSCC Congresses to the author of the best paper by a young scientist in an issue of the IFSCC Magazine published in the 2 years preceeding
the Congress. The winner is awarded a trip to the next IFSCC Congress to accept the Award, with the cost of travel, accommodations and registration fees up to 5000 Swiss Francs being reimbursed by the IFSCC. For 2020, the winner was Ka-Heng Lee
from Malaysia with his paper titled “From Molecular Characterization to Clinical Validation: Unveiling New Science of Skin Glycation and the Skin Lightening Effect of Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol Mediated via an Anti-Glycation Mechanism.” Glycation is a process associated with a
range of age-related disorders, including skin ageing. The aim of the study was to create an in vitro skin model of skin glycation in order to establish the impact of glycation stress on skin physiology. An interesting process was identified as part of the study which involved skin darkening as a result of glycation, but bypassing the involvement of melanocyte activity. The study showed that dimethylmethoxy chromanol has potential to be used to counter this effect via anti- glycation activity. In order to show this, the team developed a DMMC encapsulated nano-emulsion which not only reduced skin darkening but also had an overall benefit for skin complexion.
Podium presentation: Dr Anne Potter, L’Oréal “New insights to explain the color of blackheads: structural investigation and local microbial ecosystem implication” Surprisingly, very little is known about the origin of the black colour in blackheads. Dr Anne Potter’s presentation explained that there is a high occurrence of clogged pores and blackheads throughout the world and this is only increasing due to the current prevalence of mask-wearing. The challenge was to identify the relevant
targets for the black coloration, but this has long been an area of speculation. Variously it has thought to be as a result of oxidised lipid species or melanocytes in open comedones. The team at L’Oréal looked deeper at the
Dr Ohsumi received The Nobel Prize in 2016.
host tissue and its relationship with its respective microbiome to identify how follicular casts become coloured. A study used the extracted blackheads from 105 people of both sexes and different ages. Three clinical studies were conducted – before extraction and up to D42 after extraction using imaging tools. From the lipid and microbiome analysis, results showed that blackheads are very heterogeneous in size, shape and colour. C acnes was identified as a potential
contributing factor, via a slow, dynamic process originating from a melanin-like pigment from C acnes. Dr Anne Potter concluded that blackheads
form as a result of bacteria creating a favourable environment to protect themselves by modifying sebum composition to create an extracellular matrix similar to a biofilm in the follicular casts. The role of melanin in this process still needs to be attributed.
Podium presentation: Gaetano Distefano, Intercos “New textures from a novel ingredient: “Janus” platelets” Gaetano Distefano of Intercos began by providing a little history of Janus who was the ancient Roman God of duality. January is named after him (looking backwards to the past while also looking towards the future), while Janus particles are solid particles (nano or micron sized) displaying two faces with distinct properties such as composition, reactivity, polarity or charge. Surfactants can be considered ‘Janus’
with their molecules’ hydrophobic tail and hydrophilic head. A Janus particle with these attributes would offer the same function as surfactants but based on wettability rather than solubility. Janus particles can also be used as
emulsifiers, with Janus-based Pickering emulsions offering higher levels of stability. Cosmetic products could also have new textures and sensorialities, less sticky afterfeel and lower irritation levels. In the past, creating these types of
ingredients have involved very low yield production techniques, which is why no Janus particles are currently available on the market. The Intercos team designed a high-yield
PERSONAL CARE January 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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